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Post by the light works on Apr 20, 2015 14:16:24 GMT
ah. in the US, a tractor trailer refers to this: Yes, legal for the trailer except for twin wheels or twin axles but illegal on the tracor. Usually used for construction but not for pure cargo purooses. not here - and nobody in their right mind would put them on anything but agricultural equipment, because they are terribly bouncy. we do now have "super single" tires that some truckers use, but they have even stronger sidewalls than standard truck tires, because one pair of sidewalls is doing the work of two.
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Post by silverdragon on Apr 21, 2015 6:06:58 GMT
I am struggling hard to find and "legal" road use for those tyres.
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Post by the light works on Apr 21, 2015 13:37:17 GMT
I am struggling hard to find and "legal" road use for those tyres. in our farming areas, it is legal to transport farm machinery by road - assuming all safety rules are met.
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Post by c64 on Apr 21, 2015 20:27:07 GMT
They are legal on slow trailers (<40 kph, i have recently asked) and even slower motor-machines and tractors (<25 kph). They are often used to prevent damage to meadows and very good for deep mud.
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Post by silverdragon on Apr 22, 2015 6:52:50 GMT
Which you find a lot of on the roads?... They are the same as you would find on the Argo Cat, I have driven one of those (and bloody amazing that was...) but that wasnt road legal. In fact, having seen them on farm machinery, I cant remember seeing them on anything with a number plate... Towed behind a slow vehicle, yes, as in a trailer, but that trailer was agricultural, "reasonable access" rules apply, but you cant get one if you dont have reasonable need for one, they are not legal on roads unless you have reason to go between fields. (And cannot be moved outside your own home range of fields...)(Unless specialised transport, as in on the back of another trailer...)
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Post by the light works on Apr 22, 2015 13:52:11 GMT
Which you find a lot of on the roads?... They are the same as you would find on the Argo Cat, I have driven one of those (and bloody amazing that was...) but that wasnt road legal. In fact, having seen them on farm machinery, I cant remember seeing them on anything with a number plate... Towed behind a slow vehicle, yes, as in a trailer, but that trailer was agricultural, "reasonable access" rules apply, but you cant get one if you dont have reasonable need for one, they are not legal on roads unless you have reason to go between fields. (And cannot be moved outside your own home range of fields...)(Unless specialised transport, as in on the back of another trailer...) that is exactly what we are saying - that they have special dispensation to go from one field to another on the road.
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Post by wvengineer on Apr 23, 2015 2:37:13 GMT
concrete is considered to be conudctive. our house earthing stanard now is to connect to the rebar in the concrete foundation. I can say for a fact that at power line voltages, even minimal ones, asphalt is also conductive. I have actually used the conductivity of concrete to my advantage. In my previous job, we had a project where we were setting up a new work area in a static sensitive environment. I wasn't keen on installing a true conductive floor due to the cost and maintenance requirements. What we came up with is the normal conductivity of the unfinished poured high strength concrete floor was something like 5.5 G ohms. We had the floor polished for FOD control reasons. This brought down the resistance to about 1.7G ohms. When the operators were wearing electrically conductive shoes (and cotton socks) any static that they generated would bleed off and the resistance of the concrete floor would dissipate the static electricity. Worked great. On farming tractors (the 25 kph max kind) they are sometimes filled with water for extra traction. You don't need to install concrete weights. I prefere barrels and a PTO pump. You can dump ballast anywhere and pick up ballast very conviniently. Also you can refill the water tubs for cattle on your way back from the field. It's fairly common for farmers in my area to do something similar. However, they use antifreeze. Weather gets funky here. WE had some snow today and we will likely get a few more sub-freezing nights before summer hits. Water filled tires tend to require expensive repairs when it gets cold out.
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Post by the light works on Apr 23, 2015 3:39:10 GMT
concrete is considered to be conudctive. our house earthing stanard now is to connect to the rebar in the concrete foundation. I can say for a fact that at power line voltages, even minimal ones, asphalt is also conductive. I have actually used the conductivity of concrete to my advantage. In my previous job, we had a project where we were setting up a new work area in a static sensitive environment. I wasn't keen on installing a true conductive floor due to the cost and maintenance requirements. What we came up with is the normal conductivity of the unfinished poured high strength concrete floor was something like 5.5 G ohms. We had the floor polished for FOD control reasons. This brought down the resistance to about 1.7G ohms. When the operators were wearing electrically conductive shoes (and cotton socks) any static that they generated would bleed off and the resistance of the concrete floor would dissipate the static electricity. Worked great. of course, the other side of the coin is it doesn't matter how conductive the concrete is if the house is sitting on sand. as I found out through the combination of an idiot journeyman (I was an apprentice at the time) who pulled the bonding straps out of the panels, and an inspector who insisted we provide grounding conductors at all the switches even though they hadn't yet started providing grounding terminals - and we hadn't mastered the trick of tucking them so they didn't accidentally contact the hot terminals.
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Post by c64 on Apr 23, 2015 14:41:33 GMT
concrete is considered to be conudctive. our house earthing stanard now is to connect to the rebar in the concrete foundation. I can say for a fact that at power line voltages, even minimal ones, asphalt is also conductive. I have actually used the conductivity of concrete to my advantage. In my previous job, we had a project where we were setting up a new work area in a static sensitive environment. I wasn't keen on installing a true conductive floor due to the cost and maintenance requirements. What we came up with is the normal conductivity of the unfinished poured high strength concrete floor was something like 5.5 G ohms. We had the floor polished for FOD control reasons. This brought down the resistance to about 1.7G ohms. When the operators were wearing electrically conductive shoes (and cotton socks) any static that they generated would bleed off and the resistance of the concrete floor would dissipate the static electricity. Worked great. On farming tractors (the 25 kph max kind) they are sometimes filled with water for extra traction. You don't need to install concrete weights. I prefere barrels and a PTO pump. You can dump ballast anywhere and pick up ballast very conviniently. Also you can refill the water tubs for cattle on your way back from the field. It's fairly common for farmers in my area to do something similar. However, they use antifreeze. Weather gets funky here. WE had some snow today and we will likely get a few more sub-freezing nights before summer hits. Water filled tires tend to require expensive repairs when it gets cold out. Well, plowing isn't done at very low temperatures. The water can be removed during winter. Here in Germany, there are two different kinds of farming machinery. Most of them are road legal. E.g. it is common for a farmer to ship items with the same tractor the fields are plowed with. That's why filling the tires with water is a bad idea over here. It is a lot harder to brake with water inside the tires. Harvesters and other special equipment is different. They are not road legal at all. You need a exceptional permission. You have to request it and state which roads you plan to use when. Usually, this is just a formality but there are special conditions imposed. E.g. someone has to accompany the vehicle who is fluent in German. This is the reason why I often drove harvesters over roads but never used one for actual harvesting. In Germany, you have to be 18 to drive a car (now 17 with supervision by someone over 18), but until 1995 everybody could make a "tractor license" with 16! The idea was that you can start to help daddy on the farm early. Actually school holidays were invented to allow kids help on the farm. Over 100 years ago, most people were farmers until mechanized agriculture became possible. And in the beginning, a lot of manpower was still required so a license forestry and agriculture vehicles was very easy to obtain and with 16. This was kept until 1995, now you need to be 18 and you need to attend driving school and pass exams. I was just trained by a farmer and then he had "bought" me my license for my 16th birthday. And while all my friends had 50ccm (maximum) motorcycles or just bicycles to ride to school, I had 1336ccm With 16, the license is limited to "≤25 kph; ≤3 axles, ≤12000kg", when I turned 18, the license became unlimited for anything agricultural and forestry with up to 63kph. Above the limit is ≤3 axles again but still no weight limit and this counts for any vehicle so with just the license for cars, I may drive "big rigs" as long as they have not more than 3 axles or "twin axles". My car license is only good for breaking the 63kph limit and usiing vehicles which are not intended for farming. For agriculture and forestry machinery, I may drive "any number of tractors or trailers or combination of them". In GTA San Andreas, you can steal many tractors and hook them together. The simulation is surprisingly accurate there, when using more than 7, you will crash soon for sure!
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Post by silverdragon on May 26, 2015 7:14:21 GMT
More tyre myths. Maximum inflation rating on the tyre wall. This is an indicator of load carrying... If loading your car puts pressure on your tyres that take it over that number, UNLOAD something, that number is there to protect the handling of the vehicle, its not always the max pressure the tyre can take.
Edit, its also supposed to indicate the vehicle you can use the tyre on, Inflate off the vehicle, [or with wheel off the ground], put on the vehicle, if the vehicle weight increases the tyre pressure above "max", the vehicle is too heavy for that tyre.
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Post by silverdragon on May 26, 2015 7:16:29 GMT
TPMS. Get real. Tyre pressure monitoring systems are not that accurate... They will warn you if there is a problem, if they look wildly "out" of normal, stop and check, but, do NOT rely on them to give you any accurate pressure reading, check them manually.
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Post by silverdragon on May 26, 2015 7:30:18 GMT
Tyre "stretching".... I dont fully understand why, but, this is a practise where for example 12 inch wide tyres are put on 16 inch wide wheels to get some "low profile" action going on?.... Its supposed to allow you to run wider wheel rims without tyre rub on the wheel arch?... So just get the proper tyres, run a low profile if you must, whats with this silly look of narrow tyres?...
Personally, I think it would damage the tyre wall?... they are supposed to run at 90degree to the tread, they are designed to have strength that way.
Either way, I suspect I am being told right, that this is dangerous, and DO NOT EVEN THINK of doing that at home.
The idea that it works is a myth.
I have no actual evidence myself, only what I can find on internet, but there are anecdotal stories of sudden deflation whilst cornering hard, which makes sense, and that the deformed tyres will not grip as well as it should.
There are also legality questions. I hardly think a tyre not designed for the wheel would be legal?... but in what countries?... I know that insurance companies take a very dim view of it, and would cite it as a modification they have not agreed to, and refuse payout.
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Post by the light works on May 26, 2015 14:45:22 GMT
Tyre "stretching".... I dont fully understand why, but, this is a practise where for example 12 inch wide tyres are put on 16 inch wide wheels to get some "low profile" action going on?.... Its supposed to allow you to run wider wheel rims without tyre rub on the wheel arch?... So just get the proper tyres, run a low profile if you must, whats with this silly look of narrow tyres?... Personally, I think it would damage the tyre wall?... they are supposed to run at 90degree to the tread, they are designed to have strength that way. Either way, I suspect I am being told right, that this is dangerous, and DO NOT EVEN THINK of doing that at home. The idea that it works is a myth. I have no actual evidence myself, only what I can find on internet, but there are anecdotal stories of sudden deflation whilst cornering hard, which makes sense, and that the deformed tyres will not grip as well as it should. There are also legality questions. I hardly think a tyre not designed for the wheel would be legal?... but in what countries?... I know that insurance companies take a very dim view of it, and would cite it as a modification they have not agreed to, and refuse payout. when my dad was a kid, the po' folks who couldn't afford wide wheels and paddlewheel tires for their dune buggies would weld two standard wheels together, and then stretch a tire over them with two inner tubes, to get a wider profile for the sand. I think today the trend comes from kids buying fancy wide wheels and then figuring out they can't afford wide tires to go on them - and then it became a fashion thing, much like driving your car with the wheels visibly off camber. the "I can be stupider than you can" look.
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Post by the light works on May 26, 2015 14:48:31 GMT
More tyre myths. Maximum inflation rating on the tyre wall. This is an indicator of load carrying... If loading your car puts pressure on your tyres that take it over that number, UNLOAD something, that number is there to protect the handling of the vehicle, its not always the max pressure the tyre can take. Edit, its also supposed to indicate the vehicle you can use the tyre on, Inflate off the vehicle, [or with wheel off the ground], put on the vehicle, if the vehicle weight increases the tyre pressure above "max", the vehicle is too heavy for that tyre. should be easily testable. the tire also has a load rating embossed on the sidewall. inflate the tire to maximum pressure, then use a press to put that much load on the tire, and see if it changes the pressure.
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Post by silverdragon on May 27, 2015 8:10:35 GMT
The "I also use my car on a race track" look?... Funniest ever sticker I saw If you know the Nurembergring race track, you know why....
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Post by silverdragon on May 27, 2015 8:12:32 GMT
More tyre myths. Maximum inflation rating on the tyre wall. This is an indicator of load carrying... If loading your car puts pressure on your tyres that take it over that number, UNLOAD something, that number is there to protect the handling of the vehicle, its not always the max pressure the tyre can take. Edit, its also supposed to indicate the vehicle you can use the tyre on, Inflate off the vehicle, [or with wheel off the ground], put on the vehicle, if the vehicle weight increases the tyre pressure above "max", the vehicle is too heavy for that tyre. should be easily testable. the tire also has a load rating embossed on the sidewall. inflate the tire to maximum pressure, then use a press to put that much load on the tire, and see if it changes the pressure. I cant see how inflating a [normal average] tyre to 35psi then adding a ton weight over the tyre wont change the tyre pressure....
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Post by the light works on May 27, 2015 14:21:18 GMT
The "I also use my car on a race track" look?... Funniest ever sticker I saw If you know the Nurembergring race track, you know why.... I have never seen a car driving on a race track with the wheels off camber - unless it was on its way to the pits. off the topic of tires, but we had the fashion here of having one fender painted with primer. at first I thought it was a sign that ricers were bad drivers, but then I figured out it as done to make it look like they'd hit something on the track.
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Post by the light works on May 27, 2015 14:49:15 GMT
should be easily testable. the tire also has a load rating embossed on the sidewall. inflate the tire to maximum pressure, then use a press to put that much load on the tire, and see if it changes the pressure. I cant see how inflating a [normal average] tyre to 35psi then adding a ton weight over the tyre wont change the tyre pressure.... the tires are, to some degree, elastic. (obviously nowhere near as elastic as a balloon) if you take a pneumatic piston and add weight to it, the air pressure inside it will increase, but I think the elasticity of the tire will significantly reduce the change in air pressure inside. after all, I put two tons of weight on each of my tires, without a significant change in pressure. I'm curious if there is a formula to compare tire pressure to ground pressure, but I suspect it is not very simple.
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Post by silverdragon on May 28, 2015 7:08:36 GMT
No, you probably wont, as it sometimes as little as 0.5% of a degree.... It just adds a little lean in to the tyre on a tight corner, so that the whole tread is gripping the track as it brakes/corners. Excessive camber, as in the photo you showed, is how stupid can you be, because then you loose grip on high-speed fast corners.
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Post by silverdragon on May 28, 2015 7:10:53 GMT
Your tyres are built by design to take that change. Try the same with a Nissan Micra, or even an original Mini tyre.
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