|
Post by alabastersandman on Feb 11, 2016 1:58:18 GMT
I would never own a metal lathe.... I just cant get into metal. I prefer wood, maybe its because I learnt from my Father?.. maybe its because its "easier"?.. Or maybe its because its in my heritage. BTW, its not easier at all, because there is the knowledge of what can and cant be done with a huge dod of wood just by the look and feel of the thing. My father knew by "feel" if a certain lump would split on the lathe. Spotting those internal defaults from the bark saves a lot of time. I know by feel if a certain lump can be trusted to be structural, how much it can be "bent", and how long its going to take before it pushes back at my feeble attempts to force my will upon it.... However, a good steam oven can bend wood in many directions, if you know the right wood to do that with. My own Routers, chop saw, jig saws, "sawzilla's" belt sanders and other equipment have been either down the line from my Fathers estate, or gathered at the long time ability to spot something good at junk sales. I can repair and make "whats needed", if I had a larger shop, I could go bigger, but as all I have is a large domestic garage space, its a case of a chest of draws fills the place?... (With all the tool cabinets benches and other stuff in there...)so much of my stuff is make the parts and assemble elsewhere. Like door frames. Wood is great, but it really does make lousy bushings, bearings and cams. Now if you're making tables, chairs or chests of drawers, I'd stay away from metal. Can't really compare a metal lathe to a wood lathe like it's one over the other. Totally different tools for different materials. True, it matters not how skilled one is on a wood lathe if what you need is an adapter to affix a T-mount camera lens to a breech-lock camera body. Converely if what you want is something that allows for to ability to create spontaneous works of art with little to none technical know-how, a wood lathe is your best bet. If you have no imagination, you likely won't fare well on a wood lathe. A wood lathe was never the ideal tool for technical work, the wood lathe has always been more a tool for the artist as it lends itself beautifully to 'freeform' turnings. I rarely have a 'vision' of just what a wood turning will look like when I'm done with it, often I begin turning and stop the lathe frequently to study the grain and other markings of the wood. I basically let the wood tell me what to turn.
|
|
|
Post by kharnynb on Feb 11, 2016 4:57:57 GMT
I am also more a wood than metal worker, luckily the wife is a certified blacksmith ;D My dad was a furniture maker originally, so he has a great workshop, I sadly have neither the room nor the tools yet to really call my little shed a "workshop". Mostly nowadays I do big work with my father-in-law at our cottage or yard, docks, decks etc. He has a decent dewalt sawtable and some good electric tools, I have all the handtools that Dad gave me whenever he upgraded his. My first 'shop' was in a 10'x10' shed. My collection of tools included a crappy benchtop Ryobi drill press (the chuck would fall off) and the Radial Arm saw pictured above, along with a small spattering of hand tools. At the time I knew very little about woodworking as far as tool use or knowlege of wood itself. Once I had my 20" Band Saw, a now-defunct Delta 12" Planer, and the Jointer I decided I would get started on building my own line of pool tables. I spent well over $300 on Red Oak and when it was delivered the total sum of wood I ordered was in two large slabs that I struggled to even pick up and feed into the band saw. What I didn't know at the time was to check for the moisture content of the wood. As a result several of the panels on the legs as well as the wood for the top of the rails began splitting on me. That table is still not completed as I haven't figured out how I will work around the split wood to make it look right once done. I also decided to hold off on any kind of production of anything until I knew more about what I was doing. I'm really more of an artist than I am a woodworker, I just choose to use wood to as the media of my artwork. Subsequently I need to learn woodworking. I'm the exact opposite, I'm pretty handy with wood and learned a lot from my dad and brother who are both qualified carpenters(dad furniture carpenter, brother more of a house builder), however I don't do artistic stuff, big, strong and basic is my strenght
|
|
|
Post by GTCGreg on Feb 11, 2016 5:27:13 GMT
One of the handiest machine tools I have in my shop is a Maximat. It's a combination metal lathe and vertical mill in one unit. While I wouldn't want to depend on it for production runs, it's great for making prototypes or replacement parts that are no longer available. (this picutre isn't actually the one I own, but mine is identical.) Nice, with that kind of capacity you are nearly limited only by your imagination. I haven't used my 'Smithy' much for lack of knowlege in metalworking but I am learning slowly. No, my imagination isn't the limiting factor, but my machinist ability sure is. I know my way around a machine shop, but only after hours when no real machinists are around to see.
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Mar 29, 2016 8:53:32 GMT
Anyone have a clue what this may be?...
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 29, 2016 13:50:38 GMT
Anyone have a clue what this may be?... my best guess is a spanner to open a specific sort of cover.
|
|
|
Post by OziRiS on Mar 29, 2016 18:44:23 GMT
Anyone have a clue what this may be?... Looks like a very specialized tool for a very specific job.
|
|
|
Post by GTCGreg on Mar 29, 2016 19:55:15 GMT
Anyone have a clue what this may be?... Looks like a very specialized tool for a very specific job. Well, based on the tape measure, we can eliminate all specialized metric tools.
|
|
|
Post by OziRiS on Mar 29, 2016 21:16:25 GMT
Looks like a very specialized tool for a very specific job. Well, based on the tape measure, we can eliminate all specialized metric tools. That narrows it down a lot
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 30, 2016 0:31:46 GMT
Well, based on the tape measure, we can eliminate all specialized metric tools. That narrows it down a lot unless it is to adapt to a metric doohickey.
|
|
|
Post by Lokifan on Mar 30, 2016 1:59:07 GMT
Anyone have a clue what this may be?... Okay, I blew up the picture a bit, and looked at the details. The pin on the far left looks like it fits into a hinge. The far left end is coiled, and looks like it's the same diameter. The other side looks like it's designed to clamp around something square. Could it be used to precisely align something like a cabinet door by plugging into a hinge? I see the serial number is all over the "What the heck is this?" sites on the web, so I guess we're not alone in our curiosity...
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Mar 30, 2016 9:18:50 GMT
Where do you think I got it from?.
Yep, its still an open question in some places, I just wondered if any of the exotic experiences some of us have ever had have bougt any of us into contact with this one....
I have shown it to some of the aircraft trade, some have suggested a tool specially made for a specific job, have asked about if it is hinged in the middle, and as Loki suggests, could it be a door aligner to ensure the door is hinged in the right place.
Yet I am not aware of anyone being "spot on", and, I have to admit, I have not a pot-of-glue[clue] as to what it is?.
However.
One person has suggested that the thumb-wheel and slider are possibly something that may indicate that something may have been attached.
One plausible suggestion.... Is it an alignment tool for a square chisel drill..
I dont have enough to go on to answer that.
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 30, 2016 14:18:41 GMT
Where do you think I got it from?. Yep, its still an open question in some places, I just wondered if any of the exotic experiences some of us have ever had have bougt any of us into contact with this one.... I have shown it to some of the aircraft trade, some have suggested a tool specially made for a specific job, have asked about if it is hinged in the middle, and as Loki suggests, could it be a door aligner to ensure the door is hinged in the right place. Yet I am not aware of anyone being "spot on", and, I have to admit, I have not a pot-of-glue[clue] as to what it is?. However. One person has suggested that the thumb-wheel and slider are possibly something that may indicate that something may have been attached. One plausible suggestion.... Is it an alignment tool for a square chisel drill.. I dont have enough to go on to answer that. the hinge looks more to me like an easy storage feature. not sure about the pin
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 30, 2016 15:14:21 GMT
the thumb wheel-slider looks to me like the sort of adjuster used on an adjustable wrench - but it can only work against the raised corner on the left of my image. (apparently the right of Loki's. maybe he has his computer facing the opposite direction I do) looking closer, the riveted joint that looks like a pivot has a limited range of motion.
|
|
|
Post by Lokifan on Mar 30, 2016 15:52:36 GMT
What's a little left/right dyslexia between friends... Someone claimed that it was used on the "New Yankee Workshop" as a framing alignment tool in episode s18e10 on building a shed. I've looked all over the usual sources to find the episode, but failed. I'm not up for trying the dodgy sites just to satisfy my curiosity; I don't need to test my antivirus stuff that much.
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 30, 2016 15:59:39 GMT
What's a little left/right dyslexia between friends... Someone claimed that it was used on the "New Yankee Workshop" as a framing alignment tool in episode s18e10 on building a shed. I've looked all over the usual sources to find the episode, but failed. I'm not up for trying the dodgy sites just to satisfy my curiosity; I don't need to test my antivirus stuff that much. It's too short to space modern standard studs. it could be associated with timber framing, though.
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Mar 31, 2016 7:20:39 GMT
quote]It's too short to space modern standard studs. it could be associated with timber framing, though. [/quote]
Not that I know. What I know is that they would cut a noggin from off-cuts to the required length and use that, one on each end, to space the struts, as "Well there is no such thing as a set distance, just a suggested distance..." Every foot-and-half [as a suggestion...] is just that, "about" a foot and a half. so if its 19inch, its 19, if its 20, its 20, and if you get to the end and its just too long for that wall, 26 inch, then its two 13 inch stretches.
Builders think in 8X4. Most walls are therefore built in how many lengths of 4ft from one end to the other.... Of course the inside of a room when finished is going to be shorter than the outside wall. Unless you have an ESM office.....
Maybe today they have reason to be framing buildings with anal retardation of to the millimetre, but that isnt really the traditional way, every foot-and-half was just about right?.. get me a stack of 8X4 plywood and we will see where we go with that.
Unless there is a limitation in space, and then you build "To size".
When I threw a roof on my outside lean-too to make a covered walkway to and from my back door, I built the frames for the plastic roof sheeting to the sheets of plastic. I couldnt see any reason to have to decide on a certain length and then have to cut the sheets to size when I could just throw up six sheets along "that" wall and then decide that the roof would be that length. Therefore, my roof and the posts that hold it up, are the length of six sheets of roofing (thermal) plastic along that wall, and 4 sheets along the other wall round the corner.
I did the whole lot with a tape measure and set square... oh and a spirit level to get the roof height equal, and get the required drop from top to bottom of the roof slope.
On "Is it strong enough", I built it to over-size, in that I could stand on the roof frame without it creaking alarmingly. (I have crawl boards should I need to get above it....) It has been up through three 80mph+ storms for over 10 yrs now, I think its good....? its also had a foot thick snow on it.
The ability to walk the dog and take muddy boots off outside the back door without getting wet when its raining?... priceless.
|
|
|
Post by GTCGreg on Mar 31, 2016 13:33:19 GMT
Not that I know. What I know is that they would cut a noggin from off-cuts to the required length and use that, one on each end, to space the struts, as "Well there is no such thing as a set distance, just a suggested distance..." Every foot-and-half [as a suggestion...] is just that, "about" a foot and a half. so if its 19inch, its 19, if its 20, its 20, and if you get to the end and its just too long for that wall, 26 inch, then its two 13 inch stretches. Builders think in 8X4. Most walls are therefore built in how many lengths of 4ft from one end to the other.... Of course the inside of a room when finished is going to be shorter than the outside wall. Unless you have an ESM office..... Maybe today they have reason to be framing buildings with anal retardation of to the millimetre, but that isnt really the traditional way, every foot-and-half was just about right?.. get me a stack of 8X4 plywood and we will see where we go with that. Unless there is a limitation in space, and then you build "To size". When I threw a roof on my outside lean-too to make a covered walkway to and from my back door, I built the frames for the plastic roof sheeting to the sheets of plastic. I couldnt see any reason to have to decide on a certain length and then have to cut the sheets to size when I could just throw up six sheets along "that" wall and then decide that the roof would be that length. Therefore, my roof and the posts that hold it up, are the length of six sheets of roofing (thermal) plastic along that wall, and 4 sheets along the other wall round the corner. I did the whole lot with a tape measure and set square... oh and a spirit level to get the roof height equal, and get the required drop from top to bottom of the roof slope. On "Is it strong enough", I built it to over-size, in that I could stand on the roof frame without it creaking alarmingly. (I have crawl boards should I need to get above it....) It has been up through three 80mph+ storms for over 10 yrs now, I think its good....? its also had a foot thick snow on it. The ability to walk the dog and take muddy boots off outside the back door without getting wet when its raining?... priceless. Here, framing is on 16" centers. Sometimes 24" will be used on a garage or shed.
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 31, 2016 13:46:23 GMT
when you cut a mortise and tenon, you typically want to get closer than "suggested" if you get the mortise too small, it won't fit. if you get the tenon too small, it won't stay.
|
|
|
Post by Lokifan on Mar 31, 2016 16:59:19 GMT
Here's a pretty easy one. What's wrong with this picture?
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 31, 2016 17:19:05 GMT
Here's a pretty easy one. What's wrong with this picture? well, it looks like a nonstandard battery pack. besides that, the operator is cutting an unsecured board. it looks like the short end of the board is on the rest and the long end is hanging in space, but there is actually a plank under the end just towards the camera from the saw. looking more esoterically, the clothing and pose look abnormal for the average construction project.
|
|