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Post by the light works on Jan 9, 2014 14:43:00 GMT
Care to name and shame them?.... I have met this pressure, I resist, I often walk out, announcing that they have lemoned the sale and lost my custom. We had the same here happen with Doc Martens. Doc's used to be the main footwear of those who needed good protective footwear.... They were definitely not fashion. Then they became so, and the makers went stupid, and shipped the whole manufacturing process overseas, so some cheep sweat shop. Unfortunately, the reliability and build quality dropped as fast as the price went up. They are now synonymous with cheep cr@p sold in expensive boxes.... And I wouldnt wear them as Bike boots ever again, as I dont think their steel toecaps have even 10% of the steel in them any more.... they are not even sold as "Safety" boots because of trades descriptions?.... If they have Red Wing where you are, give them a try. they cost twice as much as Docs, or other low quality boots, but depending on the model, they can last twice as long or more. (I have to have non-marking soles, so the model I wear cannot be resoled) my work boots average 2-2 and a half years. my nicer-than-work shoes are around 8 years old, now.
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Post by The Urban Mythbuster on Jan 9, 2014 14:45:53 GMT
If you're placing the extender IN the room you're having problems in, you're a dunce and shouldn't be working with this stuff yourself. Get a professional to help or at least someone with more knowledge than you. The extender needs to be placed between the router and the place that has no signal and will only work if it's a range problem. If it's an interference problem, you're f***ed either way. That should go without saying. In my particular case it's a range problem. Getting a different router isn't an option for me, since the one I have is provided by my ISP and the signal from the main cable that comes in from the street is encrypted. The router they provide has software that decodes it, so it has to be there or you don't get a signal. It's only beyond that piece of hardware you're free to distribute the signal throughout the house as you want. Hard wiring anouther wireless router to the original one might be an option thoug. I'll have to look into that, so thanks for that idea You don't have AT&T for service, do you? When I had UVerse, I was stuck with a combo ADSL modem/router (w/ wifi & phone). Range was dodgy. You may be able to find a third party ADSL/cable modem that is compatible with your service and then you will be able to add on any wifi router that you want to. Otherwise, you should be able to add a wifi Access Point off of the provided router without much difficulty, just make sure the router & access point use different IP addresses and don't create a conflict.
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Post by the light works on Jan 9, 2014 15:03:53 GMT
If you're placing the extender IN the room you're having problems in, you're a dunce and shouldn't be working with this stuff yourself. Get a professional to help or at least someone with more knowledge than you. The extender needs to be placed between the router and the place that has no signal and will only work if it's a range problem. If it's an interference problem, you're f***ed either way. That should go without saying. In my particular case it's a range problem. Getting a different router isn't an option for me, since the one I have is provided by my ISP and the signal from the main cable that comes in from the street is encrypted. The router they provide has software that decodes it, so it has to be there or you don't get a signal. It's only beyond that piece of hardware you're free to distribute the signal throughout the house as you want. Hard wiring anouther wireless router to the original one might be an option thoug. I'll have to look into that, so thanks for that idea You don't have AT&T for service, do you? When I had UVerse, I was stuck with a combo ADSL modem/router (w/ wifi & phone). Range was dodgy. You may be able to find a third party ADSL/cable modem that is compatible with your service and then you will be able to add on any wifi router that you want to. Otherwise, you should be able to add a wifi Access Point off of the provided router without much difficulty, just make sure the router & access point use different IP addresses and don't create a conflict. if it is a low range transmitter, you can simply buy a better one, plug it into the ISP router, and then configure it.
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Post by OziRiS on Jan 9, 2014 18:49:06 GMT
You don't have AT&T for service, do you? When I had UVerse, I was stuck with a combo ADSL modem/router (w/ wifi & phone). Range was dodgy. You may be able to find a third party ADSL/cable modem that is compatible with your service and then you will be able to add on any wifi router that you want to. Otherwise, you should be able to add a wifi Access Point off of the provided router without much difficulty, just make sure the router & access point use different IP addresses and don't create a conflict. AT&T aren't exactly known to provide services in Scandinavia, so no I've got a wireless router lying around somewhere, so I may just try hard wiring that to the modem/router from my ISP and see if that works. Quick question: If they're both set up to obtain an IP automatically there shouldn't be any conflicts, right?
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Post by The Urban Mythbuster on Jan 9, 2014 20:58:50 GMT
They *should* be able to find non-conflicting IP addresses, but it doesn't take too much to manually change the IP address if they don't.
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Post by BlackWidowNor on Jan 9, 2014 21:07:24 GMT
Oh, and a heads up about Samsung: I'm a fan of the brand myself and haven't had any problems with any of their products yet, but a couple of months ago a Danish consumer service TV show revealed that in the past couple of years Samsung have been using sub-standard parts in some of their TV and computer screens, leading them to fail after about two years. It's not a major problem if you find a repair shop where they know about this, since the part that most commonly fails is a 20 cent condensator, so including work hours the repair probably won't run you much more than $20-$50. If the shop you go to use better parts, the problem will go away completely and you can enjoy your screen for many years to come. It's worth noting that the TV show blew the problem way out of proportion and made it sound like this was bound to happen with every Samsung screen bought after 2010. That isn't true. The numbers suggest it's more like 3-7%. However, the problem does exist, so if your Samsung screen suddenly fails on you, find a repair shop that knows to look at that condensator before looking at anything else and you'll have your screen back soon enough. Actually the parts are underrated capacitors on the Vss IP board (aka the Power Supply). They don't put underrated caps on the board, but the amount of current produced is more than the caps can stand for an extended period of time. Reputable shops will go one step up in voltage and then the unit will be rock solid again. This is a known issue on ALL LCD Samsungs - if you have an LCD Samsung, google the model number with the word "clicking" and you should get a boat load of results.
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Post by GTCGreg on Jan 10, 2014 3:43:46 GMT
Oh, and a heads up about Samsung: I'm a fan of the brand myself and haven't had any problems with any of their products yet, but a couple of months ago a Danish consumer service TV show revealed that in the past couple of years Samsung have been using sub-standard parts in some of their TV and computer screens, leading them to fail after about two years. It's not a major problem if you find a repair shop where they know about this, since the part that most commonly fails is a 20 cent condensator, so including work hours the repair probably won't run you much more than $20-$50. If the shop you go to use better parts, the problem will go away completely and you can enjoy your screen for many years to come. It's worth noting that the TV show blew the problem way out of proportion and made it sound like this was bound to happen with every Samsung screen bought after 2010. That isn't true. The numbers suggest it's more like 3-7%. However, the problem does exist, so if your Samsung screen suddenly fails on you, find a repair shop that knows to look at that condensator before looking at anything else and you'll have your screen back soon enough. Actually the parts are underrated capacitors on the Vss IP board (aka the Power Supply). They don't put underrated caps on the board, but the amount of current produced is more than the caps can stand for an extended period of time. Reputable shops will go one step up in voltage and then the unit will be rock solid again. This is a known issue on ALL LCD Samsungs - if you have an LCD Samsung, google the model number with the word "clicking" and you should get a boat load of results. Under rated capacitors isn't just a problem with Samsung TV's but with many LCD computer monitors and TV's. The symptom is that the TV or monitor will now boot up at all or will start after it's left on for a few minutes. The problem usually doesn't appear until after a few years of use. I've repaired a number of monitors of different makes over the years and it's almost always the secondary filter capacitors in the switching power supply. The bad ones are often easy to spot because the tops of them will be bulging rather than flat. If you see any capacitors with bulging tops, replace them. If possible, use capacitors of a higher voltage rating, not that the voltage rating is being exceeded, but higher voltage capacitors are larger and can more easily dissipate internal heat that is generated because of the high ripple current these caps carry. If you can't fit the larger capacitor in the space provided, try to get a capacitor with a higher temperature rating, although these may also be larger in size. A word of caution is in order. Be aware that the primary filter capacitors, that are charged directly from the power line, may retain a significant charge of 200 volts or more even after the monitor or TV is unplugged. You should always short these caps with a jumper wire or screwdriver before working on a unit with a switching power supply even though it's unplugged.
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Post by the light works on Jan 10, 2014 4:28:19 GMT
Actually the parts are underrated capacitors on the Vss IP board (aka the Power Supply). They don't put underrated caps on the board, but the amount of current produced is more than the caps can stand for an extended period of time. Reputable shops will go one step up in voltage and then the unit will be rock solid again. This is a known issue on ALL LCD Samsungs - if you have an LCD Samsung, google the model number with the word "clicking" and you should get a boat load of results. Under rated capacitors isn't just a problem with Samsung TV's but with many LCD computer monitors and TV's. The symptom is that the TV or monitor will now boot up at all or will start after it's left on for a few minutes. The problem usually doesn't appear until after a few years of use. I've repaired a number of monitors of different makes over the years and it's almost always the secondary filter capacitors in the switching power supply. The bad ones are often easy to spot because the tops of them will be bulging rather than flat. If you see any capacitors with bulging tops, replace them. If possible, use capacitors of a higher voltage rating, not that the voltage rating is being exceeded, but higher voltage capacitors are larger and can more easily dissipate internal heat that is generated because of the high ripple current these caps carry. If you can't fit the larger capacitor in the space provided, try to get a capacitor with a higher temperature rating, although these may also be larger in size. A word of caution is in order. Be aware that the primary filter capacitors, that are charged directly from the power line, may retain a significant charge of 200 volts or more even after the monitor or TV is unplugged. You should always short these caps with a jumper wire or screwdriver before working on a unit with a switching power supply even though it's unplugged. some years back, I went on a trouble call to one of the local sewage plants. the capacitor on one of their valve motors had ruptured - or more precisely, blown out its end cap. I took it to the local electric motor repair place, to get a replacement; and the owner looked at it, and said, "well, this isn't a run capacitor, this is a start capacitor - if you try to run a motor with it, it will heat up" aha - I talked to the plant operator, and sure enough, they had had a problem with the valve that resulted in it being cycled several times in a row. they'd used the undersized capacitor to make the motor head smaller, on the expectation that the valve wouldn't cycle frequently enough for the capacitor to overheat.
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 10, 2014 7:43:02 GMT
In your case it seams to be the logical case... you can get a 25mtr (About 75-80 ft) extension lead for a few quid from any decent parts shop, run it under carpets, over doors, twice round the lamp shade (why not?) and there you go... However, one thing I did forget to mention, check which channels are in use.... Having two wireless routers on the same channel in the same house really screws with your mind when your trying to work out why you cant get a stable signal.....
However...... and this is a definitive answer, I do hear there are wired extenders. Its a no-shirt-sherlock simple idea, its the same as those wireless extenders that are bloody useless, except they come with their own 25mtr extension lead, you set them up to carbon-copy your own router, and all they do is work as an extension areal for your own Wi-Fi signal.... So simple someone should have thought of this idea already... Hey, they did, and it wasnt me?... No Fair, I wanted credit for that one.....
By the way, if someone is thinking why not just carbon-copy the settings for two different routers on the same channel and get twice the coverage, it doesnt work that simple, I tried. Even same make and model numbers, unless they are designed to be extensions of a base router, argue the hell with each other over who has got the signal.
Communications doesnt work on human common sense rules. It does make sense eventually, but only when you understand the rules.... And I aint got space on here to write them all down. It all boils down to the fact electronic wireless can only talk to one at a time and only listen to one at a time. It can do that in sequence to many different routers if set to do so, but unless you actually tell it it has many different sources, it will only listen to the ones it knows.
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 10, 2014 7:52:16 GMT
I have discovered Cat Rigger boots. they are more comfortable that they should be, and for non-work occupations, they do just nice.... I have also got something from "Golden shoe company" for work steel toe rules, these are complete safety boots, steel toe, heel, under foot plates, side impact protection, they are to all extents the Volvo of the shoe world?... I live a short drive from the Rozzy Valley, the British home to all things shoe related, as most of the many factories up there are all cobblers of one sort or anoher, it took a couple of hours one sunday to find the right place that did local safety shoes. To give an idea of what is considered safe in those parts, many people still swear by Clogs... Huge lumps of hard leather with many iron nails in them that can double as a hammer, that are almost indestructible.
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 10, 2014 7:56:31 GMT
Oh, and a heads up about Samsung: I'm a fan of the brand myself and haven't had any problems with any of their products yet, but a couple of months ago a Danish consumer service TV show revealed that in the past couple of years Samsung have been using sub-standard parts in some of their TV and computer screens, leading them to fail after about two years. It's not a major problem if you find a repair shop where they know about this, since the part that most commonly fails is a 20 cent condensator, so including work hours the repair probably won't run you much more than $20-$50. If the shop you go to use better parts, the problem will go away completely and you can enjoy your screen for many years to come. It's worth noting that the TV show blew the problem way out of proportion and made it sound like this was bound to happen with every Samsung screen bought after 2010. That isn't true. The numbers suggest it's more like 3-7%. However, the problem does exist, so if your Samsung screen suddenly fails on you, find a repair shop that knows to look at that condensator before looking at anything else and you'll have your screen back soon enough. Actually the parts are underrated capacitors on the Vss IP board (aka the Power Supply). They don't put underrated caps on the board, but the amount of current produced is more than the caps can stand for an extended period of time. Reputable shops will go one step up in voltage and then the unit will be rock solid again. This is a known issue on ALL LCD Samsungs - if you have an LCD Samsung, google the model number with the word "clicking" and you should get a boat load of results. Even Better, Just ring Samsung customer care lineIf its a known fault, Samsung arrange someone to come out and repair the TV, replace those capacitors, or whatever it is that causing you the problem, it takes about half hour, and its FREE.... I know as they did ours a few years back?... I think I may have mentioned this before?.... that ten year old screen, well out of warranty, I wondered, thought it may be worth a chance, phoned Samsung, and got more than I expected, in a very nice way.
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Post by mrfatso on Jan 10, 2014 11:13:08 GMT
Care to name and shame them?.... In our country for instance WHSmith with their stacks of Terry's Chocolate Orange etc by the till, the staff have to suggest the add on sale, in fact if you are nosey enough look at the till screen a prompt comes up,that they have to cancel to remind them of that fact. Okay it's not $100 dollars, but the same pressures exist from management to upsell.
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 10, 2014 11:19:52 GMT
Duly noted. And I actually do remember them trying that when I was there with something or other.... I just raised an eyebrow in a "Seriously?.." way, and they didnt ask again.
I think I can add B&M to the list of UK shops that do that at the tills... they tried it with chocolate bars... In fact, if I remember our last trawl through "The Pound Shops", I think MOST of them had "Special offers" on at the tills that the attendants tried to get interest in....
"Managers special".
You can tell he is, he is licking the side of the Milk cabinet.....
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Post by the light works on Jan 10, 2014 14:55:02 GMT
my own upselling policy is somewhat more informal. if the customer says they want something, give them a price. if something just makes good sense, suggest it as a possibility. if it is a bid job, and something just makes good sense, install it. it costs a lot less to install a receptacle, now, than to fish one in after finish. and more to the point, it is cheaper for me to nail up an extra receptacle than it is to sit down with my forms and write up a change order, and bill them for an extra.
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Post by The Urban Mythbuster on Jan 10, 2014 15:08:43 GMT
When I worked retail, we had to strive for upselling & add ons. Customer wants an inexpensive printer for home? Upsell them to a midgrade model and add on CIPS (Cables-Ink-Paper-Service Plan). Yes, we did get financial incentives for selling service plans, $5-10 depending on the length of the plan (1-3 years). My issue was personal experience with the service plan convinced me it was useless and I didn't want to rip off my customers.
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Post by mrfatso on Jan 12, 2014 16:01:23 GMT
You know to make things even worse, yesterday I went to WHSmiths to buy a paper, with only one item, and this thread in mind I went to the Express self service till. After scanning my paper and pressing the finish and pay button, a screen came up showing me their special offers. It tried to upsell automatically .
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Post by BlackWidowNor on Jan 12, 2014 19:30:48 GMT
Even Better, Just ring Samsung customer care lineIf its a known fault, Samsung arrange someone to come out and repair the TV, replace those capacitors, or whatever it is that causing you the problem, it takes about half hour, and its FREE.... I know as they did ours a few years back?... I think I may have mentioned this before?.... that ten year old screen, well out of warranty, I wondered, thought it may be worth a chance, phoned Samsung, and got more than I expected, in a very nice way. Actually - you CAN do that - but all Samsung does is put the SAME caps on the board - not an upgrade - so you end up having the same problem down the road a few years in which they WON'T fix it because it's already been "fixed". They will now fight you tooth and nail claiming that the problem was resolved and you won't get another fix
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Post by wvengineer on Jan 13, 2014 0:21:54 GMT
On the topic of wifi routers, one recommendation is to avoid ones Made by Belkin. The irony is I like their cables and I use their USB to RS232 serial converters a lot where I work, but their routers are junk.
I have been trying to help both my parents and in-laws deal with issues with their routers. I finally convinced my in-laws to get a Cisco router that they found on sale to replace their old junky one, buy my parents don't want to by a new one.
Meanwhile, my Linksys WRT54G just won't die. Streaming video on to several wireless devices at a time is starting to max it out, but it just keeps going, and I can't quite justify replacing it at the moment.
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 13, 2014 7:50:45 GMT
No..... well, not a good engineer anyway?... Its a contract, Samsung use reputable local engineers. They did our Telly, the engineer that we got showed me the two different caps, the one he pulled and the replacement. The offending ones have been discontinued, obviously, the replacements are therefore logically an upgrade, and the engineer will replace with something about the same but better, being they are in the same price bracket, and Samsung would question being called out to the same repair twice?.... The bill to Samsung is probably about £30 to £40, parts pennies each, at 10p or 15p, a good engineer would use the 15p ones?...
Belkin routers, I have one in perfect condition here, working just fine.... Whats the problem with them? This is a 8yr old, is there reliability issues with more modern ones?...
Admittedly, the one in use here is/was wireless, but is now being used as a slave wired unit for the junk behind the TV....
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Post by kharnynb on Jan 13, 2014 16:33:38 GMT
Belkin is ok, not terrible, not great. Linksys/cisco(same company) are decent, same as asus routers.
The only ones to stay away from are d-link and Buffalo, because they tend to ship with underpowered wallwarts that overheat easily.
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