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Post by the light works on Aug 9, 2014 0:36:06 GMT
No, its not. Evolution is about genetics, not diet. Diet may (and does) affect how strongly some genetic traits may be evident - such as height - but the basic coding remains the same. The average height in Japan, for example, has increased quite dramatically since the end of WW2. But this is due purely to a much richer protein diet since 1945. If you went back in time and grabbed a baby from 1700's Japan, then brought them forward to today and raised them as any other child in Japan they would not automatically be shorter than their class mates. but I think in other countries, you might find that the modern baby grew up slightly taller than the time machine baby.
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Post by wvengineer on Aug 9, 2014 17:48:35 GMT
I can offer some insight on train operation. Working with a local scenic railroad, I have some experience riding in the cabs of both (GP30's and a Balwin 2-8-0) and working with the crews.
An average person being able to operate a diesel locomotive, maybe, assuming the engine was already running, and they had some explanation of the different modes of operation (throttle, dynamic breaking, wheel breaking, etc.) Starting a diesel is somewhat involved, much more than a car or truck. You have cylinders that need purged, various valves, circuit breakers, and fuel pump controls. So, no, a average person could not start one without at least a detailed checklist that includes locations of all the various controls.
For a steam engine, absolutly no way. At best, a steam engine is a two person operation, engineer and fireman. As far as the actual control, without detailed training, forget it. To the average person it is nothing more than a total mess of valves and leavers, most of which are not labeled. So you can grab a handle and have no idea of if it is throttle, brake, purge, or grate dump, let alone when you would need to operator each one. Even with an auto-stoker, that takes someone who knows that they are doing to monitor it. Randomly twisting valves at best would do nothing, at worse could result in serious injury.
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Post by silverdragon on Aug 10, 2014 8:49:58 GMT
Its not evolution, its a 'better' diet. its a little of both. [edit... are we evolving a separate "Myth" here, is Food responsible for Evolution or is evolution responsible for the food we eat....this is topic drift, not that I mind, its a good conversation... but should the thread be split two ways?....]What is evolution?... My answer, the more "Clever" and "Better designed" get the better food... I cite as one example the Giraffe, the animal evolved to get the greener tastier younger shoots at the top of the plant, a "Better" diet?.... Any animal with longer legs, Deer for example, the taller ones eat better?... and more...?.. Better diet is evolution, the 'Uman frame has evolved because we get a better diet and because we get a better diet the Human frame has evolved. The two are mutual?...
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Post by silverdragon on Aug 10, 2014 9:16:12 GMT
Back to driving and can you drive....
Does height change the way you drive. Yes. I am of the firm belie3f that there should be a minimum height for the driver of certain vehicles wherein below that height the vehicle would need adaptations, much in the way disability cars are adapted, shorter people (I aint got time for PC here, go listen to Randy Newman if you want the general idea...) Shorter people should need and be required to have Pedals and Seat height adjustments to bring their head height to "Designed" level.
How do vehicle manufacturers get around the fact the average height has nothing to do with Reality?... In my own family, even on my Wifes side, there is a height difference between 4ft something and well over 6ft. I cannot drive some of the family's cars as they are not amused when I alter seats and mirrors to my height, the general agreement is you travel in the car of the tallest person there as they will drive and the smaller cars just aint built for tall people in the back?... There are and have always been cars where the back seat is out of bounds for me, I wont fold up enough to get through the doors, two or three door cars, forget it before I try, my spinal injury prohibits me bending "That way". Exception to the rule, Mini. Not Bini (BMW mini) The Original and best Mini. And thst because Alec Isigonis designed them to be driven by tall or short people... he was ahead of his time....
So car design... you either give good head height or you dont. I personally think cars of today should be designed in a way that they cater for all. But then again, below a certain height, it should be considered as a disability when driving, and adaptations be made. They can easily be done... pedal extensions and a (Well secured) booster seat are not that hard to get done?... I have seen a booster seat design to go over a normal seat and "Bolt" to the support struts underneath.
The seat in my own Toyota has height adjustment. I am over six foot... I can adjust the height so my head does not touch any part of the ceiling at all with a couple of inches gap, at the other end, I need to then open the rain hatch (Manchester Sun roof?..) to sit up straight. So it can be done. Quite easily.
I therefore cannot see any reason why I am following a car where "Grandma" is peering THROUGH a steering wheel to see out?....
If you cant see the road in front of you at less than three car lengths, how can you see out of the sides or back?... how can you have control if you can not judge where car and pavement meet?... HOW do you judge?... If the answer is "Braille", by roadside furniture, then I am speechless that you should continue driving.
I also then suggest that taller vehicles should have a height restriction. And Shorter vehicles should also have a height restriction. This would prevent the courtesy car being a micro-mini that customers cant be expected to fit in... Insurance firms anyone?... I have a clause in my Insurance that should I need a courtesy vehicle if my own is off the road, because my Family is six foot tall, a vehicle should be provided "Like for like" where 5 x 6ft people can ride happily.... And get a weeks shopping in the boot.
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Post by Cybermortis on Aug 10, 2014 12:20:29 GMT
Being a short ass myself, the problem isn't the height of the seat - I've never had a problem in that regards. The problem is usually that you have to stretch to push the clutch all the way in on some designs. (I think the worst two I encountered were the old Vauxhall Nova and the Mini Metro - ironically the smaller car was the worst of the two)
Not that height isn't sometimes an issue. I recall driving to an aunts house and being stunned to see what appeared to be a car driving along by itself. Closer inspection revealed a pair of hands on the wheel, and it wasn't until the car turned that I spotted the old lady the hands belonged to. She was so low down in the seat I have no idea how she could see anything smaller that a bus on the road.
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Post by the light works on Aug 10, 2014 13:46:48 GMT
Back to driving and can you drive.... Does height change the way you drive. Yes. I am of the firm belie3f that there should be a minimum height for the driver of certain vehicles wherein below that height the vehicle would need adaptations, much in the way disability cars are adapted, shorter people (I aint got time for PC here, go listen to Randy Newman if you want the general idea...) Shorter people should need and be required to have Pedals and Seat height adjustments to bring their head height to "Designed" level. How do vehicle manufacturers get around the fact the average height has nothing to do with Reality?... In my own family, even on my Wifes side, there is a height difference between 4ft something and well over 6ft. I cannot drive some of the family's cars as they are not amused when I alter seats and mirrors to my height, the general agreement is you travel in the car of the tallest person there as they will drive and the smaller cars just aint built for tall people in the back?... There are and have always been cars where the back seat is out of bounds for me, I wont fold up enough to get through the doors, two or three door cars, forget it before I try, my spinal injury prohibits me bending "That way". Exception to the rule, Mini. Not Bini (BMW mini) The Original and best Mini. And thst because Alec Isigonis designed them to be driven by tall or short people... he was ahead of his time.... So car design... you either give good head height or you dont. I personally think cars of today should be designed in a way that they cater for all. But then again, below a certain height, it should be considered as a disability when driving, and adaptations be made. They can easily be done... pedal extensions and a (Well secured) booster seat are not that hard to get done?... I have seen a booster seat design to go over a normal seat and "Bolt" to the support struts underneath. The seat in my own Toyota has height adjustment. I am over six foot... I can adjust the height so my head does not touch any part of the ceiling at all with a couple of inches gap, at the other end, I need to then open the rain hatch (Manchester Sun roof?..) to sit up straight. So it can be done. Quite easily. I therefore cannot see any reason why I am following a car where "Grandma" is peering THROUGH a steering wheel to see out?.... If you cant see the road in front of you at less than three car lengths, how can you see out of the sides or back?... how can you have control if you can not judge where car and pavement meet?... HOW do you judge?... If the answer is "Braille", by roadside furniture, then I am speechless that you should continue driving. I also then suggest that taller vehicles should have a height restriction. And Shorter vehicles should also have a height restriction. This would prevent the courtesy car being a micro-mini that customers cant be expected to fit in... Insurance firms anyone?... I have a clause in my Insurance that should I need a courtesy vehicle if my own is off the road, because my Family is six foot tall, a vehicle should be provided "Like for like" where 5 x 6ft people can ride happily.... And get a weeks shopping in the boot. by "courtesy car" do you mean a loaner car provided by the insurance, or do you mean a car ride provided by the hotel so you don't have to call a cab? in the case of the former, yes, there should be a rule that the loaner car should be adequate to the purpose the damaged car serves. (not necessarily like for like - if the guy is using a Cadillac Escalate for the sole purpose of carrying around his huge ego, he can stand to drive a sedan for a while.) in the case of the former, that is what online reviews are for.
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Post by wvengineer on Aug 11, 2014 2:30:15 GMT
To add Some info about what is involved in driving a steam locomotive. Attached are some pics of the controls of the steam locomotive of the Scenic Railroad I work with. This is a 1916 Baldwin locomotive. I can tell you what some of the various valves and levers do, but not all, and I couldn't even start to get into what all is needed to run it properly. You can imagine someone with absolutely no idea what is involved in a steam locomotive be completely lost with this. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
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Post by silverdragon on Aug 11, 2014 7:05:11 GMT
Courtesy car, either insurance provided or Garage when the car is in for service or work being undertaken.
TBH, I think all cars classed as such should be height appropriate.
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Post by c64 on Aug 11, 2014 19:11:17 GMT
To add Some info about what is involved in driving a steam locomotive. Attached are some pics of the controls of the steam locomotive of the Scenic Railroad I work with. This is a 1916 Baldwin locomotive. I can tell you what some of the various valves and levers do, but not all, and I couldn't even start to get into what all is needed to run it properly. You can imagine someone with absolutely no idea what is involved in a steam locomotive be completely lost with this. View AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentCorrect. It's not like in the movies where there are red zones on the meters with skull and crossbones symbols You don't have any idea where the needles of the gauges need to point at. ALso there are a lot of gauges "camouflaged". There are parts which don't look like they are telling something important. And you need to know how keep some of the gauges operational. For example the gauge for the water level needs to be drained regularly or it might become "stuck". That's where the train engineers usually get their hot water to heat up their meals from. Here are some pictures of a steam train engine which was retrofitted to run on heavy oils: webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:L2wR3zjhO2wJ:www.drehscheibe-online.de/foren/read.php%3F3,3719284,3720368+&cd=1&hl=de&ct=clnk&gl=de&client=firefox-a By the way, this is the steam engine of the train museum I once had worked with a very long time ago. I even operated this steam engine for a short while but that was pure micromanaging. Even if I spent hours watching how the crew worked the controls, I still would have no idea how to keep it running. I do know how to "fire it up" and maintain the fire while "parking". But I don't know how to properly generate steam for operation. Stopping one at the station is very tricky. Braking harder and harder until wheelslip is easy, regulating the brake performance and prevent wheel slip is real hard. I've never mastered that task well (never tried it with the steam engine but with the diesels). So "can you drive it?" - no, at least not for more than a "few minutes". But you can defiantly stop one, even faster than you might want.
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Post by c64 on Aug 11, 2014 19:26:04 GMT
By the way, the first picture where everything is painted red is the tender with the 10,000 liter oil tank. It has to be heated to 80°C to keep the oil liquid enough.
The red tray on the right is where you keep your refreshments, this is the only place where you can put anything which won't be blocking something important and also the only place where your cold drinks won't heat up to more than 40°C.
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Post by silverdragon on Aug 12, 2014 7:14:48 GMT
Steam, the speed control, Get me [So Much}head of steam, we have a hill..... The "accelerator" on a steam loco is much like a pedal on a car where it needs to be in different places to get the same result dependant on the terrain, there is no set "Do this and you will get that", the dials and gauges are there to tell you what you have, the amount of water in the boiler varies with the task, the PSI of stem varies, the fire is variable, its a living breathing monster just barely under control.
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Post by alabastersandman on Sept 19, 2015 7:57:51 GMT
I suspect learning to drive the train would be easier than learning all the signals and what-not that the engineer needs to know
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Post by the light works on Sept 19, 2015 13:51:04 GMT
I suspect learning to drive the train would be easier than learning all the signals and what-not that the engineer needs to know right. the original question was "can he get it to go, can he get it to stop" (most trains turn on their own but on other vehicles can he get it to turn)
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Post by GTCGreg on Sept 19, 2015 14:30:29 GMT
I suspect learning to drive the train would be easier than learning all the signals and what-not that the engineer needs to know Learning the signals is crazy. It's amazing how many things two lights can mean. One problem is that there is little standardization. What the signals mean on one railroad may mean something different on another.
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Post by wvengineer on Sept 20, 2015 2:21:53 GMT
The railroad I work with is a small line, so the signals are pretty simple. I have actually gotten a bit of time driving one of the diesels. Fun stuff and not too bad once it is explained to you.
The signals if you were to go up the transfer line and onto the CSX yard, that is a whole different world.
Oh, and stopping a train, very easy if you know what to look for. Once of the first diesel cab rides I took as a brakeman, the engineer told me to enjoy the ride, but not to rest my foot on one pipe with a red valve... The steam engine also has a similar valve that is in easy reach. Again, you have to be careful not to use it as a hand hold.
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Post by the light works on Sept 20, 2015 4:18:56 GMT
The railroad I work with is a small line, so the signals are pretty simple. I have actually gotten a bit of time driving one of the diesels. Fun stuff and not too bad once it is explained to you. The signals if you were to go up the transfer line and onto the CSX yard, that is a whole different world. Oh, and stopping a train, very easy if you know what to look for. Once of the first diesel cab rides I took as a brakeman, the engineer told me to enjoy the ride, but not to rest my foot on one pipe with a red valve... The steam engine also has a similar valve that is in easy reach. Again, you have to be careful not to use it as a hand hold. a modern diesel, all you have to do is not do anything. of course, that complicates getting it to go.
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Post by wvengineer on Sept 20, 2015 20:29:51 GMT
The GP30 I drove was built in the early 1960's, so I don't know how it compares to a modern setup. For the most part, once it is started, driving it is kind of similar to driving a car, without the pedals and steering wheel.
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Post by the light works on Sept 20, 2015 21:31:17 GMT
The GP30 I drove was built in the early 1960's, so I don't know how it compares to a modern setup. For the most part, once it is started, driving it is kind of similar to driving a car, without the pedals and steering wheel. I've heard of two versions: one had a pedal that the engineer has to maintain partially depressed, and the other sounds a chime at random intervals, and the engineer presses a confirm button. in both cases, failure to confirm results in the locomotive deciding the engineer is incapacitated and going into self braking mode.
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Post by c64 on Sept 21, 2015 10:19:51 GMT
The GP30 I drove was built in the early 1960's, so I don't know how it compares to a modern setup. For the most part, once it is started, driving it is kind of similar to driving a car, without the pedals and steering wheel. I've heard of two versions: one had a pedal that the engineer has to maintain partially depressed, and the other sounds a chime at random intervals, and the engineer presses a confirm button. in both cases, failure to confirm results in the locomotive deciding the engineer is incapacitated and going into self braking mode. There are many different versions of "dead man's pedals" out there. The first version was just a pedal. When not depressed, it activates the brakes. This was the standard in the US for a long time since safety was really relying on a 6-eye principle. A crew of 3 is used for each train. Two in the leading engine controlling the train and a conductor in the last car monitoring the progress of the train and doing the paperwork. The two men in the engine keep each other alert and both watch out for signals. The conductor in the rear of the train has a check list and asks for confirmation of the signals by telephone or radio. If something is wrong, anyone of them can activate the emergency brake. This system has failed horrible several times when all of the men were very sleepy and dropped protocol for convenience. A very good fully automatic system was invented in 1934 in Germany. The train engine has a set of electro magnets each connected to a different frequency (originally from a special generator, later electronically generated). There are electro magnets connected to an oscillator circuit on the tracks. When the frequency matches, the track magnet draws power when the train magnet runs over it and the extra power consumption of the train magnets activate relays. Signals ans switches can disable their magnets by short circuiting their oscillator so the frequency can't match. So running too fast over certain magnets or hitting a "stop" magnet can stop the train fully automatically. The Swiss developed their own system which is far more simple but as powerful. They use one magnet in the middle of the track connected to another magnet at the side of the track. The position of the second magnet determines its function. There is a source magnet connected to AC in the middle of the train and receiver coils at the side of the train. When the magnets in the track are connected, the receiving coils receive energy. The signals can connect or disconnect the sets of electro magnets. Another nice feature is that you can attach permanent magnets to the track for construction sites. When the train is in motion, the permanent magnet causes an impulse when run over. This isn't good enough for high speed trains since when they brake out of full speed, the train needs many miles to stop so it must know where red signals are far in advance. In Europe, most high speed train systems use a wire on the tracks. There are actually two forming a loop and switching sides every section of track. There is a high current in the wire clicking on and off with digital data. When the wires switch place, the polarity of the sensed field swaps and this is used to count the progressing distance highly accurate. In the US they use a similar system for a few years now but this one uses a radio link and can't keep track of progress accurately. The reason is the vast distances in remote areas, there is no way to lay wire loops and supply them with power economically. The first US system had a serious design flaw since it couldn't tell the difference between "drive slow" and "stop". It just alerted the driver which had to decide and press a button to confirm that he is going to do the right thing. Nowadays the system is very good and by including GPS, it is one of the safest safety systems in the world. It is a shame that it took dozens of very fatal incidents until it was developed and adopted.
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Post by c64 on Sept 21, 2015 10:35:46 GMT
Back to the dead man's pedal:
The first generation was highly uncomfortable since shifting your legs for comfort resulted in an emergency braking. So most train drivers just had put the trains manual onto the pedal which usually had the perfect weight to keep the pedal amused.
In Belgium they soon adopted a different version where you need to keep the pedal half way depressed. A dead weight would trigger when the train accelerates or decelerates. This is even more uncomfortable but they soon added timers. You can release the pedal whenever you want but this speeds up a timer. When the bell sounds, you need to fully depress the pedal, then release it and then hold it half way to confirm that you are alive and alert. Operating basic controls slows down the timer, taking your foot of the pedal speeds it up. I actually like the system since it rarely distracts you when oyu are busy operating the train e.g. at a platform. While the system is rather complicated and something might go wrong with it, it has a backup connected to the wheels. This one triggers in fixed distance intervals and will distract you when you are in the middle of something occasionally.
The modern systems are similar but they simply use a button to reset them. There isn't a pedal any more. They trigger at random intervals and at every sensed signal. They also monitor operating basic controls so they also won't annoy you when you are doing something except to confirm that you have spotted a signal.
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