|
Post by c64 on Jan 20, 2016 21:52:11 GMT
What a party pooper. You mean I have to put all these parts away? He should have told me 15 years ago so I wouldn't have wasted my time on an hydrogen ICE. Never worked well except when adding propane or plain gasoline. It was using air, not pure oxygen but it never worked well. Either no power, partial overheating or rattling the pistons until they grind.
|
|
|
Post by GTCGreg on Jan 20, 2016 23:41:17 GMT
What a party pooper. You mean I have to put all these parts away? He should have told me 15 years ago so I wouldn't have wasted my time on an hydrogen ICE. Never worked well except when adding propane or plain gasoline. It was using air, not pure oxygen but it never worked well. Either no power, partial overheating or rattling the pistons until they grind. Well THERE'S your problem. You used pistons. www.hybridcars.com/toyota-mirai-goes-on-sale-with-2000-preorders/
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Jan 21, 2016 1:09:35 GMT
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Jan 29, 2016 9:11:44 GMT
I am having another crazy idea.....
"Dry" air.
After watching a few top-fuel dragster races and having a think, I am working on the stated facts that the environment can alter run times....
If the car is at altitude, it runs slower, this we know. On a cold DRY day with low humidity, the car can absorb more fuel into the air mixture.... Thats a given for any carburettor engine, but, it also affects Injection engines.
So, I am suggesting, can the air.
I have a home de-humidifier, so getting dry air is not that hard for me. If I then run it through a compressor, I can "Bottle it", but like having a scuba tank filler in the room in a dry atmosphere with low RH.....
Here is my thought process. Take a sprint engine drag car. Not top fuel just yet, a 3 litre EFI would do for proof of concept?... Remove the blower, as its not needed now, you get extra engine power right there at lower revs by NOT running the blower, and replace that with a system that shuts the outside air supply off (A simple flap in the air intake would do that...)and goes to tank air when you hit the throttle, thus you empty a large tank of high pressure COLD dry air straight into the cylinders, inject fuel, BIG bang and way you go on the f of bang. It would be like running the car at low altitude an a dry day with a LOT of "blower" power, some turbo's provide 6lbs, some 10, some a lot more, if you had a regulator set at say 50lbs, what kind of horses would that tame?...
On tank empty, the car can revert to normal atmospheric air again.
[for anyone who spots there is no "F-in-Bang", have you tried a different injector nozzle?.. is the timing wrong?.. ]
I just sometimes come up with the crazy.... how crazy is this one, or do you think I may be on to something.
|
|
|
Post by c64 on Feb 6, 2016 12:29:47 GMT
Yes. People do all kinds of things and that doesn't automatically makes all of them noble or good.
|
|
|
Post by c64 on Feb 6, 2016 12:40:54 GMT
I am having another crazy idea..... "Dry" air. After watching a few top-fuel dragster races and having a think, I am working on the stated facts that the environment can alter run times.... If the car is at altitude, it runs slower, this we know. On a cold DRY day with low humidity, the car can absorb more fuel into the air mixture.... Thats a given for any carburettor engine, but, it also affects Injection engines. I just sometimes come up with the crazy.... how crazy is this one, or do you think I may be on to something. Actually, humidity is good for ordinary car engines (not charged by too much). Most atmospheric ICE run best at 4°C when cars start to pull vapour trails on a moist road. My current car gains about 15kph more top speed. A few weeks ago I had the problem that the workshop of my new employer is just "down the road" but quite too far to walk on foot every day, especially during the current cold and rainy weather. ALso I didn't had the company van yet so there were a lot of short trips where the engine couldn't become hot at all. So my engine had collected a lot of water inside. When there was so much water in the oil that the engine was eating the excess mixture cold, the engine was running at 1600 RPM with the actuator for idling fully retracted. This was when I decided I need to visit my parents in the late afternoon for a minute (140km). Pulling a white wall behind me like in Tron, I used up a lot less gas going a lot faster than normal. Half way on the trip back it was very disappointing when the engine ran out of water boiling out of the oil and returned to its old 1.8 liter atmospheric classic Otto being.
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Feb 6, 2016 15:05:42 GMT
I am having another crazy idea..... "Dry" air. After watching a few top-fuel dragster races and having a think, I am working on the stated facts that the environment can alter run times.... If the car is at altitude, it runs slower, this we know. On a cold DRY day with low humidity, the car can absorb more fuel into the air mixture.... Thats a given for any carburettor engine, but, it also affects Injection engines. I just sometimes come up with the crazy.... how crazy is this one, or do you think I may be on to something. Actually, humidity is good for ordinary car engines (not charged by too much). Most atmospheric ICE run best at 4°C when cars start to pull vapour trails on a moist road. My current car gains about 15kph more top speed. A few weeks ago I had the problem that the workshop of my new employer is just "down the road" but quite too far to walk on foot every day, especially during the current cold and rainy weather. ALso I didn't had the company van yet so there were a lot of short trips where the engine couldn't become hot at all. So my engine had collected a lot of water inside. When there was so much water in the oil that the engine was eating the excess mixture cold, the engine was running at 1600 RPM with the actuator for idling fully retracted. This was when I decided I need to visit my parents in the late afternoon for a minute (140km). Pulling a white wall behind me like in Tron, I used up a lot less gas going a lot faster than normal. Half way on the trip back it was very disappointing when the engine ran out of water boiling out of the oil and returned to its old 1.8 liter atmospheric classic Otto being. every fall my town has time trials on our lake, which sits just barely above sea level. there have been several limited engine class speed records set on the lake. columbiaoutboard.org/?page_id=221
|
|
|
Post by GTCGreg on Feb 6, 2016 16:57:58 GMT
I am having another crazy idea..... "Dry" air. After watching a few top-fuel dragster races and having a think, I am working on the stated facts that the environment can alter run times.... If the car is at altitude, it runs slower, this we know. On a cold DRY day with low humidity, the car can absorb more fuel into the air mixture.... Thats a given for any carburettor engine, but, it also affects Injection engines. I just sometimes come up with the crazy.... how crazy is this one, or do you think I may be on to something. Actually, humidity is good for ordinary car engines (not charged by too much). Most atmospheric ICE run best at 4°C when cars start to pull vapour trails on a moist road. My current car gains about 15kph more top speed. A few weeks ago I had the problem that the workshop of my new employer is just "down the road" but quite too far to walk on foot every day, especially during the current cold and rainy weather. ALso I didn't had the company van yet so there were a lot of short trips where the engine couldn't become hot at all. So my engine had collected a lot of water inside. When there was so much water in the oil that the engine was eating the excess mixture cold, the engine was running at 1600 RPM with the actuator for idling fully retracted. This was when I decided I need to visit my parents in the late afternoon for a minute (140km). Pulling a white wall behind me like in Tron, I used up a lot less gas going a lot faster than normal. Half way on the trip back it was very disappointing when the engine ran out of water boiling out of the oil and returned to its old 1.8 liter atmospheric classic Otto being. if it worked so well, why didn't you just stop and throw an extra liter of water in the crankcase?
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Feb 6, 2016 17:17:53 GMT
Actually, humidity is good for ordinary car engines (not charged by too much). Most atmospheric ICE run best at 4°C when cars start to pull vapour trails on a moist road. My current car gains about 15kph more top speed. A few weeks ago I had the problem that the workshop of my new employer is just "down the road" but quite too far to walk on foot every day, especially during the current cold and rainy weather. ALso I didn't had the company van yet so there were a lot of short trips where the engine couldn't become hot at all. So my engine had collected a lot of water inside. When there was so much water in the oil that the engine was eating the excess mixture cold, the engine was running at 1600 RPM with the actuator for idling fully retracted. This was when I decided I need to visit my parents in the late afternoon for a minute (140km). Pulling a white wall behind me like in Tron, I used up a lot less gas going a lot faster than normal. Half way on the trip back it was very disappointing when the engine ran out of water boiling out of the oil and returned to its old 1.8 liter atmospheric classic Otto being. if it worked so well, why didn't you just stop and throw an extra liter of water in the crankcase? Wait a minuite, can someone explain this, how can water in the oil have any effect on the engine?.. I dont understand this bit.
|
|
|
Post by GTCGreg on Feb 6, 2016 17:31:42 GMT
if it worked so well, why didn't you just stop and throw an extra liter of water in the crankcase? Wait a minuite, can someone explain this, how can water in the oil have any effect on the engine?.. I dont understand this bit. It only works on the autobahn
|
|
|
Post by c64 on Feb 6, 2016 18:04:35 GMT
if it worked so well, why didn't you just stop and throw an extra liter of water in the crankcase? Wait a minuite, can someone explain this, how can water in the oil have any effect on the engine?.. I dont understand this bit. Classic engines are more crude. There is a lot of exhaust gasses venting through the piston rings into the crankcase. If the oil temperature is below 100°C and the engine block is also cold, the water vapours in the exhaust gas condensate and this water mixes with the oil. This is not as bad as you may think since the main task of the oil is to cool the moving parts of an engine (especially pistons and camshaft) and wasing away carbon deposits from the combustion (entering with the exhaust gasses into the entire engine). This would also work quite well with pure water. Another very important task is to press oil into the crankshaft bearings so the shaft floats on a cushion of pressurized liquid. When you loose oil pressure, this is what ruins the engine real fast since the shaft starts grinding and the moving parts overheat with no oil flow. The most minor task is classic lubrication by making parts slippery with the oil. So it is not bad that every engine collects water when operating it while cold. In fact you can use pure water instead of oil in an emergency. This increases wear but the engine will keep working for a very long time. When the engine is hot enough, the oil becomes hotter than 100°C. This takes a long time, much longer than the radiator water needs to reach its operational tempoerature. The water inside the oil starts to boil out when the engine was running long (and hard) enough. In fact keeping an engine idling won't heat the oil far enough so there is no point in trying to warm up an engine before driving! In fact you just collect more water. Alcohol contains more hydrogen than plain gasoline so there is a lot more water in the exhaust fumes. If you don't drive long distances regularly, don't use gas with alcohol! You can check if you have water inside the oil by looking under the oil cap. If there is grey stuff sticking on the bottom of the cap, it is oil with tiny water bubbles inside since oil and water doesn't properly mix and the cap is one of the coldest spots of the engine so the water separates from the oil there and this is an excellent spot to observe this. About a hundred years ago, the exhaust gasses in the crankcase were vented right out of the engine. To prevent that oil spilled along makes your engine bay dirty or stick to your brakes and tires, there often was a pipe or hose dumping the stuff in the center of the car. Also excess oil was spilled right out. To stop oiling the roads and later for environmental reasons, the vent pipe was then put into the air intake of the engine. The engine then burns the oil fumes which is actually good for the engine itself. With the catalytic converter, it became much more complicated since burning oil kills the converter. Modern car engines have quite a complex pipework with metal grids inside to catch back as much oil vapours as possible before burning the remaining fumes. While the car engine uses up less oil, it decreases the oil quality faster since more waste products remain inside the oil. This is the reason why changing the oil is more important nowadays than it used to be. This is why there is the myth that the car/oil/filter industry is trying to make more money for unnecessary oil changes just because in the past a car could last on old oil without apparent problems. So when the water boils out of the oil after the engine turned hot enough, wet steam is ingested by the engine. When the steam is compressed, it condenses to water and will flash to steam during the combustion. This helps the engine making more use of the combustion energy by creating more pressure in the work stroke. It also makes the exhaust gasses more poisonous and prevents the function of the catalytic converter.
|
|