|
|
Post by c64 on Mar 12, 2015 14:40:35 GMT
Such a test won't give any good results except for the owners of this particular car version.
Also torturing a modern engine with full throttle near idle RPM works fine - unless you do it a year or two causing a write-off damage to the engine. This is nothing you can figure out in a simple test for a TV show.
I always drive my classic greycast engines full throttle at idle RPM. All passengers who are experts for cars kept warning me not to ruin the engine that way. Took over 6 years until they had stopped complaining. I never had any engine problems and I own those cars and engine version since 1995, only switching cars due to accidents (caused by others) or structural failure of the suspension (caused by other driving habits which are not nice to the cars).
|
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Mar 13, 2015 6:48:28 GMT
Intrigued.... you aint trying to wheelie them are you?.. or is it the corner on two wheels approach?...
I digress.
I agree with you on the near idle cruising, 'cept I dont use much more than half throttle?...
I dont get much near full throttle except when pulling away from stop...
|
|
|
|
Post by kharnynb on Mar 13, 2015 11:09:17 GMT
Half of the year, full throttle gets you killed or just keeps you standing still while spraying snow and ice at the cars behind you.
|
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Mar 13, 2015 12:36:17 GMT
Hmmm... there are times when I wish I could spray snow and ice at the twit half a foot from my rear bumper when the weather says 20mph is suicide?....
Some people are like sheep, trying to find the quickest way to kill themselves....
|
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 13, 2015 14:52:14 GMT
still goes back to what gearbox. I've driven gearboxes that don't HAVE 4th, and I've driven gearboxes that won't DO 30 MPH in 4th.
|
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Mar 14, 2015 7:07:25 GMT
I have driven trucks that would blow the engine if you were still in low 4th at 30.
You should ideally be in (split+1st)5th or(split+2nd) 6th around 30 and upwards, on an 8 gear split box
However, I am trying to simplify this as a "usual" family saloon 5 gear manual or semi-manual box.
|
|
|
|
Post by c64 on Mar 18, 2015 22:44:28 GMT
Intrigued.... you aint trying to wheelie them are you?.. or is it the corner on two wheels approach?... 3-wheels approach. The VW 35i has a combined transverse link rear axle because this car is more meant as a cargo hauler than a sports car. Even if this setup of the rear axle seems crude, it is extraordinary sporty for such a design. Of course you need to get use to the sudden sideways jerking motion when the rear of the car comes up. All you need to do is to reduce the sideways g-forces in this moment to make the car take tight corners real fast without loosing control. This isn't hard to learn because you can feel the rear going up. Usually this makes passengers in the rear feel sick real fast. But yesterday I had my 6-year old niece in my car and was speeding through a maze of farm roads. At the destination, she told her parents "Uncle C has the coolest car!" - so it's official, I guess. |
|
|
|
Post by c64 on Mar 18, 2015 22:53:29 GMT
Half of the year, full throttle gets you killed or just keeps you standing still while spraying snow and ice at the cars behind you. Depends, if the engine RPM is low, full throttle won't give you much power. That's why you can start driving in 2th gear at a hill on snow to prevent that the wheels loose grip and spin free. The greater the gear, the lower the engine/wheel torque ratio. Low engine RPM and high gear gives you much less torque and torque is what breaks the grip of the wheels on snow. As long as I keep my engine below 1800 RPM, I can floor the accelerator and keep up nicely with traffic flow. At 40kph, I am in top gear. At 2500 RPM, the engine really starts to develop HP and at 3500 RPM, the engine switches to the cold air scope gaining more HP. My previous car (same kind, same engine) was tuned in several ways. This one breathed very hot air in "normal" mode so the engine was extra weak and economic for low power purposes. Even in 5th gear when flooring the accelerator, you felt the moment when it switched to the cold air scope. There was an audible roar and you were somewhat pressed into the seat. Not bad for an atmospheric 1.8 liter engine. My current car won't cut the mustard in this respect. Same engine type but still in its original regular gas configuration. |
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 19, 2015 1:28:03 GMT
Half of the year, full throttle gets you killed or just keeps you standing still while spraying snow and ice at the cars behind you. Depends, if the engine RPM is low, full throttle won't give you much power. That's why you can start driving in 2th gear at a hill on snow to prevent that the wheels loose grip and spin free. The greater the gear, the lower the engine/wheel torque ratio. Low engine RPM and high gear gives you much less torque and torque is what breaks the grip of the wheels on snow. As long as I keep my engine below 1800 RPM, I can floor the accelerator and keep up nicely with traffic flow. At 40kph, I am in top gear. At 2500 RPM, the engine really starts to develop HP and at 3500 RPM, the engine switches to the cold air scope gaining more HP. My previous car (same kind, same engine) was tuned in several ways. This one breathed very hot air in "normal" mode so the engine was extra weak and economic for low power purposes. Even in 5th gear when flooring the accelerator, you felt the moment when it switched to the cold air scope. There was an audible roar and you were somewhat pressed into the seat. Not bad for an atmospheric 1.8 liter engine. My current car won't cut the mustard in this respect. Same engine type but still in its original regular gas configuration. if I floor my stick shift in 3rd gear at 1800 RPM, it will change lanes and go around whoever is in front of me. then when I step off, it will change back. |
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Mar 19, 2015 7:40:23 GMT
Question....
c64 said
I get the change in air temp, but, just how does it do that.
Is there some kind of valve involved that sucks air from inside[/]outside the engine compartment?...
And who/what operates that change?...
|
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 19, 2015 13:33:45 GMT
Question.... c64 said I get the change in air temp, but, just how does it do that. Is there some kind of valve involved that sucks air from inside[/]outside the engine compartment?... And who/what operates that change?... nearly all of our vehicles do that, except the valve is thermostatically controlled: when the engine is cold, the airbox draws air off the exhaust manifold. once it gets warm, it moves the valve to draw air from somewhere cooler. supposed to help the engine reach operating temperature faster. |
|
|
|
Post by c64 on Mar 20, 2015 0:42:08 GMT
Question.... c64 said I get the change in air temp, but, just how does it do that. Is there some kind of valve involved that sucks air from inside[/]outside the engine compartment?... And who/what operates that change?... nearly all of our vehicles do that, except the valve is thermostatically controlled: when the engine is cold, the airbox draws air off the exhaust manifold. once it gets warm, it moves the valve to draw air from somewhere cooler. supposed to help the engine reach operating temperature faster. The 35i had a big heat exchanger on the manifold and a heat resistant pipe to the air box with the filter. A second pipe connects the VW logo (acting as a sieve) with the airbox, too. Inside is a flap with a pneumatic actuator. Hot air is less dense so there is less oxygen. Less oxygen means less fuel to be mixed in and you need to open the throttle wider which conserves compression and this in turn conserves efficency. This changes the effective engine size but causes NOx emissions and too little CO to compensate. This fuel saving trick is long banned by environmental laws. Also hotter mixture can be leaner so more fuel can be saved. The pneumatic actuator is controlled by the intake vacuum and an elevtric valve. The ECU decides to allow cold air and if there is enough RPM, the actuator pulls the flap over. |
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Mar 20, 2015 6:52:19 GMT
Question.... c64 said I get the change in air temp, but, just how does it do that. Is there some kind of valve involved that sucks air from inside[/]outside the engine compartment?... And who/what operates that change?... nearly all of our vehicles do that, except the valve is thermostatically controlled: when the engine is cold, the airbox draws air off the exhaust manifold. once it gets warm, it moves the valve to draw air from somewhere cooler. supposed to help the engine reach operating temperature faster. I get that bit, that makes sense, but the bit C64 describes... I havnt seen that one in action. |
|
|
|
Post by c64 on Mar 20, 2015 9:29:24 GMT
nearly all of our vehicles do that, except the valve is thermostatically controlled: when the engine is cold, the airbox draws air off the exhaust manifold. once it gets warm, it moves the valve to draw air from somewhere cooler. supposed to help the engine reach operating temperature faster. I get that bit, that makes sense, but the bit C64 describes... I havnt seen that one in action. That's because this was banned right before it had hit the market. It's part of the lean burn configuration VW came up for the 35i but was banned in favour of a more functional catalytic converter by EU emission laws right before the car came out. So most pieces of this config are still in place but not working as they were intended to do. Took me years to figure out what you could do with that to save gas. I did not went that far with my current car (yet?). Also I think I don't really need the RAM-air system due to age reasons. |
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Mar 21, 2015 8:03:33 GMT
I feel the need...
The need for Speed.
There are times when a little extra power helps you overtake, or get the heck out of the way.
|
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 21, 2015 8:18:18 GMT
I feel the need... The need for Speed. There are times when a little extra power helps you overtake, or get the heck out of the way. that extra liter in the Jeep lets me pass the motorhome AND the slow driver in an economical sports car it is stuck behind. |
|
|
|
Post by silverdragon on Mar 21, 2015 9:00:51 GMT
That extra liter if it was in my own car would double my insurance.
So I have to make the most of what I got?...
|
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 21, 2015 13:32:27 GMT
That extra liter if it was in my own car would double my insurance. So I have to make the most of what I got?... when I first bought it, the only thing that increased my insurance was putting in enough stereo I paid to have it insured in addition. I could have put an extra gallon under the hood without affecting my liability rates. |
|
|
|
Post by c64 on Mar 21, 2015 21:33:43 GMT
I feel the need... The need for Speed. There are times when a little extra power helps you overtake, or get the heck out of the way. Especially since RAM-air works around 100mph only. If you make it too big, it acts as an aerodynamic brake and you need more power to conpensate than it gives you. Too small and you can't reach the speed where it starts to matter. Since RAM-air is linear and air drag works squared, there is no way to make any good use of it at much lower or higher speeds than 100mph. This is the "magic number". The official max speed of this car is 172kph but they all do reach 180kph easily on a cold day. But they loose good acceleration above 140. With the RAM-air done my way, my blue car kept acellerating well up to 200kph and then keept going up to 225kph into the limiter. But there were some more mods to do the trick. Since regular gas became banned 10 years ago, I had cranked up the compression to a bit more than 15.2 bar. The original compression is between 9 (fully worn) and 12 (factory average). |
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Mar 21, 2015 23:58:20 GMT
actually the main reason the US never tried that hot air system is because our emissions people fixated on proportions of contaminants in the exhaust instead of total contaminants. they even went so far as to inject extra air into the exhaust system to give the catalytic converter more to work with. It was a running joke during the height of the Los Angeles smog that certain cars put out cleaner air than they took in.
of course, Americans immediately decided smog control stuff was responsible for their cars being slugs - not the fact that they were putting 25% smaller motors in cars that still weighed the same. - so many people tore out whatever they thought was "smog control" - which usually resulted in the cars becoming cold blooded, as part of the smog control was ways to get the engine to warm up faster.
|
|
