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Post by silverdragon on Nov 28, 2013 9:14:24 GMT
I had to get a set of new tyres, Goodyear eagles being my choice, as I dont want pirelli crud on my car.
Whats wrong with pirelli?... ask Lewis Hamilton.....
Nor do I want "Town tyres" that dont have a motorway speed rating.
We have discussed on this board if tyres come with a "Protective coating" when new, I have assured that as far as I know, having delivered tyres at one point for a while, that no, this is not true.
Anyway, I decided to ask, whilst I was there, about this mythical "Coating" they put on tyres to protect them in storage.... just in case I was wrong...
The guy there is a good friend of mine, I have delivered tyres there before, its a good cheep local tyre place, no nonsense tyres and no "Special deals", 'cos they get them at the best price they can in the first place?...
So I ask, IS there any special coating that gets put on the tyres?...
As he explained, tyres are by their very nature a protective coating that prevents your wheels wearing out on the road.
So to put a protective coating OVER a protective coating?... isnt that rather overkill?...
Yes the outside of the tyre "Cures" in the air after manufacture, yes the moulds often have a release agent in them, not as much, as even THEY are now using 'Teflon' style non-stick surfaces in the moulds?...
But anyway, no, no "Special" coating is used on tyres after manufacture, apart from the "Chalk marks" you see on the surface, which is no more than a visual indicator that the tyres are un-used when you buy them, as they wear off within a couple of miles.
After tyres are made, they are thrown about, they are rubber, TOUGH, pretty solid... would you really want a tyre that COULNT take a little rough handling?...
After all, they are to spend their life getting the worst handling roads can throw at them.
Tyre manufacturing places are not always clean-rooms...
For sure the bit where they actually make a tyre are as clan as necessary to ensure no possible containments get into your tyre, but after that, tyres are stacked, rolled, shelves, thrown, "Drop-kicked twice" onto the back of a wagon, and generally treated as "Bullet proof" by tyre fitters...
If they cant take that kind of handling, you dont want them on a car.
During that handling, certainly, the treads of the tyre, WILL pick up some amount of surface dirt.
Be that oils from the garage floor, transfer from the workers hands (They wear protective gloves...) and all kinds of crud...
But again, to be honest, those tyres are due to roll over places you wouldn't really want to walk through?...
If the CANT take that handling?...
So, is there a "Film" on tyres when new?...
You are warned as you drive away to take the first few miles careful, just in case something has attached to the tyre tread surface during transport and storage... it WILL wear off during normal use, but, no, it is not put there intentionally.
As far as he knew.
However, as he only deals in tyres for "Real" cars, he cannot speak for tyres for "Showroom" condition vehicles or those used for display, only that he does know they use copious amounts of "Tyre black" polish in certain showrooms to make them look good....
Of course, if anyone else can find out anything different, please add it below.....
EDIT....BTW, my choices were "Budget" tyres, as in "Dubious-name" cheep, Goodyear, Pirelli, or Michelin....
Michelin were £20 per tyre more expensive and were "energy savers"...
Fine, less rolling resistance, great fuel savings?... maybe, but, they have less grip...
I have had to test my ABS three times in the last week, including one twerp who tried to overtake on the inside up a CYCLE LANE...........
Like WTF?....
I have therefore decided hang the 20p per tank fuel saving, I want GRIP on the front of my car...
And its getting to winter, so the more grip I have the better anyway.
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Post by the light works on Nov 28, 2013 15:57:15 GMT
I have Goodyears on mine; and I paid three times as much for them - but I have the advantage that they are a year old and the belting isn't showing, yet; which has been the best I have gotten with lesser GRADES of tire. (they are the same grade of tire you have on your IDW truck) - Goodyear is the only company that sells that grade in my size.
and here, too, I have seen no evidence of a protective coating other than a mold release agent. however, I think the freshly molded surface may have a slight glazing to it that abrades off in the first mile or so.
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Post by User Unavailable on Nov 28, 2013 23:01:08 GMT
I have Goodyears on mine; and I paid three times as much for them - but I have the advantage that they are a year old and the belting isn't showing, yet; which has been the best I have gotten with lesser GRADES of tire. (they are the same grade of tire you have on your IDW truck) - Goodyear is the only company that sells that grade in my size. and here, too, I have seen no evidence of a protective coating other than a mold release agent. however, I think the freshly molded surface may have a slight glazing to it that abrades off in the first mile or so. Why does your truck wear tires out so fast? |
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Post by the light works on Nov 29, 2013 2:57:24 GMT
I have Goodyears on mine; and I paid three times as much for them - but I have the advantage that they are a year old and the belting isn't showing, yet; which has been the best I have gotten with lesser GRADES of tire. (they are the same grade of tire you have on your IDW truck) - Goodyear is the only company that sells that grade in my size. and here, too, I have seen no evidence of a protective coating other than a mold release agent. however, I think the freshly molded surface may have a slight glazing to it that abrades off in the first mile or so. Why does your truck wear tires out so fast? something to do with an average GVW of 10,000# and averaging over 400 miles per week. |
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Post by User Unavailable on Nov 29, 2013 3:08:38 GMT
Why does your truck wear tires out so fast? something to do with an average GVW of 10,000# and averaging over 400 miles per week. That still seems excessively fast for wear, even at that weight/mileage. Is that all tires or is it biased to the front or rear? Edit: 400 miles per week averages to only 57 miles a day on a seven day week. 400 miles per week x 52 weeks = 20,800 miles. Wearing a set of tires out with that mileage in a year is excessive. |
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Post by the light works on Nov 29, 2013 3:31:32 GMT
something to do with an average GVW of 10,000# and averaging over 400 miles per week. That still seems excessively fast for wear, even at that weight/mileage. Is that all tires or is it biased to the front or rear? it's noseheavy - and its the front tires it grinds down. the other side of the story is that the average grade of tires' load ratings add up to about 10,000# rear tires wear evenly, front tires wear at the shoulders. still better than the van my old boss had me in. it would blow out the rear tires at 50% treadlife, because it was so badly overweight. |
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Post by User Unavailable on Nov 29, 2013 3:55:51 GMT
That still seems excessively fast for wear, even at that weight/mileage. Is that all tires or is it biased to the front or rear? it's noseheavy - and its the front tires it grinds down. the other side of the story is that the average grade of tires' load ratings add up to about 10,000# rear tires wear evenly, front tires wear at the shoulders. still better than the van my old boss had me in. it would blow out the rear tires at 50% treadlife, because it was so badly overweight. Ah, running tires with excessive weight will give excessive wear. Sounds like you need a bigger truck if your current sized tires are wearing excessively. I know it's probably not an option. Some of the new combine harvesters, have corn headers that fold up, so the farmer can drive them on the road from field to field without removing the header and pulling it on a trailer to the next field and putting it back on. The man who farms our land said he will never buy one of those. The excess moving parts and hydraulics to make the header fold, add so much weight that the front tires wear noticeably in a short time on the highway. Those tires are EXPENSIVE. He said he will just keep on removing and replacing the headers. It only takes 10-15 minutes. It is all quick detach/attach hydraulics and pins with snap rings. He just needs one other person to drive the truck pulling the trailer and 30 foot header, who also helps him hook up and unhook and since most all farmers don't move equipment that large without an escort vehicle, there is no problem there. He always has help. |
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Post by the light works on Nov 29, 2013 3:59:20 GMT
it's noseheavy - and its the front tires it grinds down. the other side of the story is that the average grade of tires' load ratings add up to about 10,000# rear tires wear evenly, front tires wear at the shoulders. still better than the van my old boss had me in. it would blow out the rear tires at 50% treadlife, because it was so badly overweight. Ah, running tires with excessive weight will give excessive wear. Some of the new combine harvesters, have corn headers that fold up, so the farmer can drive them on the road from field to field without removing the header and pulling it on a trailer to the next field and putting it back on. The man who farms our land said he will never buy one of those. The excess moving parts and hydraulics to make the header fold, add so much weight that the front tires wear noticeably in a short time on the highway. Those tires are EXPENSIVE. He said he will just keep on removing and replacing the headers. It only takes 10-15 minutes. It is all quick detach/attach hydraulics and pins with snap rings. He just needs one other person to drive the truck pulling the trailer and 30 foot header, who also helps him hook up and unhook and since most all farmers don't move equipment that large without an escort vehicle, there is no problem there. He always has help. I guess my family doesn't run combines that big. they just drive half on and half off the road if they have to take it over the road. |
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Post by User Unavailable on Nov 29, 2013 4:15:03 GMT
Ah, running tires with excessive weight will give excessive wear. Some of the new combine harvesters, have corn headers that fold up, so the farmer can drive them on the road from field to field without removing the header and pulling it on a trailer to the next field and putting it back on. The man who farms our land said he will never buy one of those. The excess moving parts and hydraulics to make the header fold, add so much weight that the front tires wear noticeably in a short time on the highway. Those tires are EXPENSIVE. He said he will just keep on removing and replacing the headers. It only takes 10-15 minutes. It is all quick detach/attach hydraulics and pins with snap rings. He just needs one other person to drive the truck pulling the trailer and 30 foot header, who also helps him hook up and unhook and since most all farmers don't move equipment that large without an escort vehicle, there is no problem there. He always has help. I guess my family doesn't run combines that big. they just drive half on and half off the road if they have to take it over the road. Lol, yeah probably not. Combines around here, half off the road still has the whole road blocked on a 2lane highway. The 1lane or "lane and a half" back roads, like we live on, their Re places with fences on both sides of the road that the big combines couldn't drive through without tearing down both fences. Then you have the aggravation of weaving in and out around mail boxes, road signage, power poles and so on. When my Dad was still farming, we had a "little" combine as we only farmed about 100 acres. The man who farms our land now, farms about 2000 acres and much of it is spread around on several different farms, in addition to their own acreage. Lots of the big farmers are like that, either by leasing the land or buying it outright. So they have to move equipment around. There are a lot of farms leased, as farmers have retired and their heirs didn't want to be farmers and so did other things. If it hadn't of been for my eyes, I would've farmed out here. |
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Post by silverdragon on Nov 29, 2013 7:35:54 GMT
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Post by the light works on Nov 29, 2013 16:03:22 GMT
that grain from the edge of the field must taste great. here, the shoulder averages around 6 feet, but the road is almost always elevated above the surrounding land, so it's okay if the combine hangs out over the crop. in the backroad areas where it is just graded gravel, they plant far apart enough to fit the combine through. |
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Post by silverdragon on Dec 1, 2013 8:41:38 GMT
Not a problem...
You dont do hedges over there do you?...
In the UK, we have hedgerows between road and field. they are part of the fields, that is the way it has always been?...
They are also an important wildlife habitat, and they are THAT good at sucking up noxious gasses from traffic....
So two to three foot for pedestrians, three foot of hedge, field border of say another three foot, (enough To drive a tractor down and turn round) )and straight into Crops...
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Post by the light works on Dec 1, 2013 14:54:16 GMT
we often have wild growth in the space between the road and the field; but nothing that sticks up where it would be in the way of the combine. if the road goes through a cut instead of being elevated, the combine would have to use up the whole road to get through. this is the scale of combines most farmers run.  this is representative of most farm country roads.  this one is a major highway. the lesser roads have narrower pavement, past the fog line, but the same sort of elevation and vegetation lines. |
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Post by User Unavailable on Dec 1, 2013 18:56:19 GMT
A lot of the roads around here are lower than fields on either side. Typically because they are old roads that started as wagon tracks/roads and were worn down by use, to be lower than the fields through which they ran. Oh, and that combine is small!  No, wonder they don't remove the headers where you are.  |
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Post by the light works on Dec 2, 2013 2:55:25 GMT
A lot of the roads around here are lower than fields on either side. Typically because they are old roads that started as wagon tracks/roads and were worn down by use, to be lower than the fields through which they ran. Oh, and that combine is small! No, wonder they don't remove the headers where you are. yeah, most of our farms are small family farms: in the 100-200 acre range. |
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Post by c64 on Mar 22, 2014 14:14:06 GMT
A lot of the roads around here are lower than fields on either side. Typically because they are old roads that started as wagon tracks/roads and were worn down by use, to be lower than the fields through which they ran. Oh, and that combine is small! No, wonder they don't remove the headers where you are. yeah, most of our farms are small family farms: in the 100-200 acre range. Tiers don't need a protective coating. If they would need one, something would be seriously wrong. The environment while storing a tire is very harmless compared to the environment while driving or parking with them! A fresh tire is coated with residues of a substance they use to be able to get the tire out of the mold. Also when the rubber turns solid, it has a very slippery surface caused by surface tension. You need to scrub off the top of the tire in order to gain maximum grip. That's why F1 cars always used "used" tires for qualifying - a carefully worn "half used" racing tire has maximum grip. Nowadays, they need to start with the wheels they used during qualifying so they can't do that any more. It takes around 1000 Kilometers of ordinary driving until your fresh tires reach maximum performance - and then the yslowly degrade. |
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Post by the light works on Mar 22, 2014 14:18:45 GMT
yeah, most of our farms are small family farms: in the 100-200 acre range. Tiers don't need a protective coating. If they would need one, something would be seriously wrong. The environment while storing a tire is very harmless compared to the environment while driving or parking with them! A fresh tire is coated with residues of a substance they use to be able to get the tire out of the mold. Also when the rubber turns solid, it has a very slippery surface caused by surface tension. You need to scrub off the top of the tire in order to gain maximum grip. That's why F1 cars always used "used" tires for qualifying - a carefully worn "half used" racing tire has maximum grip. Nowadays, they need to start with the wheels they used during qualifying so they can't do that any more. It takes around 1000 Kilometers of ordinary driving until your fresh tires reach maximum performance - and then the yslowly degrade. and when you consider the "shelf life" of a modern tire is listed as 10 years... - but I believe older tires did degrade a bit faster from sunlight - so most early tires were sold wrapped in paper, and a very few modern ones are. |
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Post by c64 on Mar 22, 2014 15:00:28 GMT
and when you consider the "shelf life" of a modern tire is listed as 10 years... - but I believe older tires did degrade a bit faster from sunlight - so most early tires were sold wrapped in paper, and a very few modern ones are. In Germany, if the tires are older than 7 years, you have to replace them! Naturally nobody checks them and you can always borrow a good set for the safety inspection every 24 months, but if you do have an accident, your insurance may claim their money back from you! |
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Post by the light works on Mar 22, 2014 15:24:33 GMT
again, here, it is only an issue if it becomes an issue - as in, my Jeep's tires are now 15 years old; but unless I have a blowout; nobody will care. (and since it has been garaged for the last 5 or 6 years, and was consistently parked in a garage before; there isn't much sun damage.) conversely, my boat trailer tires had an age related failure - and if it had happened on the road instead of me noticing it and changing them out; it would have been my fault.
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Post by c64 on Mar 28, 2014 15:21:23 GMT
it would have been my fault. That's the point. If it's your own fault, you have to pay for the damage you cause on your own, your insurance won't pay for it. |
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No, wonder they don't remove the headers where you are. 
