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Post by privatepaddy on Jan 16, 2013 6:37:18 GMT
So that adds to the versatility of the camera if he chaoses either model. I was not going for a mines bigger than yours nor a nationalistic approach in presenting it for perusal, if you note on the side of the helicopter it says "Royal Navy" not "Royal Australian Navy" some see it as the same outfit which is erroneous. We have flown our own white ensign since the days of the Vietnam war. had our own fleet since Federation in 1901 As for the photo it was going to be taken even if it was a Russian helicopter ;D
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Post by privatepaddy on Jan 16, 2013 7:33:34 GMT
hopefully cropped to a more appropriate size
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 16, 2013 7:55:59 GMT
The Canon "Rebel" TTL lenses will work on ANY Canon, TTL is "Through the lens", and is the auto-focus bit, though some non TTL lenses will still fit on the mounting and work, you just have to fiddle the focus by hand....and you wont get any help with other settings... The TTL bit is important when beginning... I have various settings, and when I select some, if for instance I change shutter speed, it will "Suggest" a aperture setting in the viewfinder as I line up the shot.... this is bloody useful for learners, or even enthusiastic amateurs like me...
I have two Non canon lenses that fit and work on my 350D, the largest being a 400 Cosina lens. Beware of larger Zooms... the Cosina, if you tilt the camera down, has a habit of telescoping out to its full length on its own... Beware of COST... I have seen a Zoom lens that has an optic the size of the Hubble telescope that will fit my camera that is only £15,000 ..... And that isnt the most expensive.
There are now firms that will HIRE these HUGE zooms out for a day/week hire because they are so expensive...
As already suggested, if you are at a good zoom length, you would need some form of Tripod.
The 350, 400 and 450 "D" Canons are a bloody good range to go for for entry level DSLR. They are easy to use, take a absolutely brilliant photograph for what they are, and, more importantly, stuck on Auto, give a fantastic result....
They also look good round yer neck as they are a serious bit of kit not to be taken lightly....
Its mentioned about taking photography courses.... Yes, Definitely. Get one for beginners DSLR though, as one being ran at our local college, was for basic digital photography for real beginners.....point-and-shoot......
DSLR, beware, its an expensive hobby......... ;D
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Post by the light works on Jan 16, 2013 14:35:53 GMT
The Canon "Rebel" TTL lenses will work on ANY Canon, TTL is "Through the lens", and is the auto-focus bit, though some non TTL lenses will still fit on the mounting and work, you just have to fiddle the focus by hand....and you wont get any help with other settings... The TTL bit is important when beginning... I have various settings, and when I select some, if for instance I change shutter speed, it will "Suggest" a aperture setting in the viewfinder as I line up the shot.... this is bloody useful for learners, or even enthusiastic amateurs like me... D not quite. the electronic contacts in a TTL lens don't line up with the mechanical aperture trigger in pre-autofocus Canon cameras; and the .5V button battery the the Canon Pellix I started out on is nowhere near beefy enough to drive the autofocus motors.
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Post by wvengineer on Jan 16, 2013 23:58:39 GMT
Issues 3, 4 and 6 seem to have a common cause, namely slow/non-existent auto-focus, especially in low-light conditions. Consequently, I have deleted my previous post recommending a model that also suffered from this to some extent. Instead, I suggest that you consider an 'Enthusiast' Compact. At the risk of sending you into a coma, I recommend you read this comparison of the current models. What is considered an "Enthusiast camera?" how does it differe from your normal DSLR? Looking at the link you provided, the cameras that they list realy don't seams to me to be that good of a value. A Canon S15 on Amazon runs about $400 USD. However, for only a bit more, I can get a Canon TS with a 18-55mm lens for only $480 USD at Sams club. www.samsclub.com/sams/canon-t3-12-2mp-digital-slr-camera-with-18-55mm-f-3-5-5-6-is-ii-lens/prod2940065.ip?navAction=pushSeems to me that for only a couple bucks more, you might aw well as get DSLR setup. Why would someone consider one over the other?
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Post by freegan on Jan 17, 2013 0:45:08 GMT
Issues 3, 4 and 6 seem to have a common cause, namely slow/non-existent auto-focus, especially in low-light conditions. Consequently, I have deleted my previous post recommending a model that also suffered from this to some extent. Instead, I suggest that you consider an 'Enthusiast' Compact. At the risk of sending you into a coma, I recommend you read this comparison of the current models. What is considered an "Enthusiast camera?" how does it differe from your normal DSLR? Looking at the link you provided, the cameras that they list realy don't seams to me to be that good of a value. A Canon S15 on Amazon runs about $400 USD. However, for only a bit more, I can get a Canon TS with a 18-55mm lens for only $480 USD at Sams club. www.samsclub.com/sams/canon-t3-12-2mp-digital-slr-camera-with-18-55mm-f-3-5-5-6-is-ii-lens/prod2940065.ip?navAction=pushSeems to me that for only a couple bucks more, you might aw well as get DSLR setup. Why would someone consider one over the other? Firstly, the Canon S15 is not on my radar and would appear to be a truncation of the EF-S 15-85 mm lens whereas the Canon TS is a tilt-shift lens (neither of them a camera). The Canon T3 (in your link) is the entry level dSLR in the Canon stable (sold as the Canon EOS 1100D over here) and, as such, doesn't have quite as impressive a specification as some of the 'enthusiast' (read "advanced") compact cameras. The advantages, for you, in choosing an advanced compact are that you get good spec's, you're not 'locked into' buying lenses dedicated to a single brand and you have all the controls that you would find on a dSLR that, I suspect, you have yet to master, giving you time to determine which spec's are important to you before settling on a choice of dSLR. It would also continue to serve you well after you graduate to a dSLR of whichever brand you choose to commit to, both as a constant companion and a reliable backup.
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 17, 2013 7:58:35 GMT
Good Question.... And you have got me with that one. In how to describe a "Normal" DSLR... I dont think any of them are "Normal", they all do things differently but the same?...
Ok, so, I can try to compare for instance the 350D against say a 5D or 1D in the canon range. Why Canon?... because its what I am familiar with. The same will apply to various cameras in all ranges... For brevity, I will list just a few important parts...
Start, Cost.... in the UK, a 350/400/450D can cist a couple of hundred, complete with a two lens "Starter pack", the usual 18-50 mid-range micro-macro (Close up to zoom abilities) one EVERYONE has in the bag somewhere and a 200 zoom (Focal length, the bigger the number, the more powerfull they are)
the 5d, think the cost of a good second hand small car for a new one... Body ONLY... as in you then have to buy Lenses... they are al EF mounts, so that is useful, as in, when you start with a small EF mount DSLR, if you buy a new better body, your existing lens collection will still work on the better body... this is why the Bigger more expensive Camera's are sold Body only, as its presumed you will have started with a smaller entry level and have lenses already?...
Sensor size. The shots I take in Raw can be up to 20 megabyte in size dependant on level of detail. The 5d will be twice that size, 13,3 megepixel sensor 12 mp efective (Is loss..) and MUCH more detail.
Is, Image stabilization. On Mine... None. On other entry level you may get some IS, but not always, and it wont be that brilliant... However, you can always alter shutter speed to take the shot faster?.. you will loose some detail, but that is the trade off... With all image stabilization, you will loose some of the size of the shot, thats just how it works.
"Per Second" shutter speed... I can take 3 frames per second on continuous shot for a burst of 10 shots before write speed seriously deteriorates and my Memory card overheats... The larger DSLR's these days takes full HD Video in "Broadcast Quality", hows THAT for shutter speed?....
Functions. The 5D has functions available that you may experiment with one in the camera's entire life as an "Enthusiast", you may use more frequently as you get more competent, and may use as a Pro.... but by then you will have bought more Camera gear... you did read my warning ...
For insurance purposes, my current camera bag when full is listed as worth more than the car I drive.
The 5d was released at Three Grand in price, the 1D was twice that much... the 5D was a upgrade from the 20D, it did almost exactly the same as the 20D but slightly better, a better rear screen, viewfinder, and easier-to-use functions...
The question is almost how much do you want to spend?... you get much MORE camera the more you spend, but entry level "Enthusiast" camera's are easier on the pocket...
Well....
For Now that is....
As I say, its an expensive hobby?....
That Zoom lens, its only a couple of hundred.....
And that Manfroto Tripod.....
I just got a 35 Gigabyte card for mine. It will hold a thousand shots or so in Raw.....
No need to change cards halfway through a shoot?...
I also have a spare battery.....
Expensive?... the "WIFE" let loose with a credit card in a shopping centre would be easier on the pocket......................
(I have maxed my Credit card on this camera stuff)
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Post by privatepaddy on Jan 20, 2013 8:51:56 GMT
Hopefully this wont take up to much space taken on the south coast of the UK with the telephoto lens and again hand held. This was one of the photos I was originally thinking of.
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Post by c64 on Jan 20, 2013 13:29:04 GMT
Some modern cameras now have a GPS receiver. While this is real brilliant to publish pictures on google maps, it can be real dangerous when it comes to Twitter, Facebook & Co.
When pictures appear "live" from your holiday trips, a burglar knows that you are not at home for a while and can browse your other pictures finding the location of your home in pictures of e.g. your pet or family celebration pictures!
So make sure the GPS feature is off when taking pictures in or around your home!!!
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 21, 2013 9:52:52 GMT
Again on that... GPS, do you REALLY need that on a camera?..... If its to "Remember" where you took the shot, fine, go ahead. If you want to Publish it, use something to strip the EXIF data before you upload it anywhere. No photograph of mine that has been uploaded has ANY EXIF data on it at all.... I certainly dont want people knowing what camera equipment I am using and where to find it. I also do that because on one photography site I used a while back, I got "Negative criticism" from one of the boards "Ex-Spurts" about how I took a shot?.... The shot was perfect, but they HAD to go look at what settings were in use and start with the "Well if you wanted a better shot you should have tried......." Sometimes a photograph of a WRC Rally car in mid-air is JUST an action shot of a car in mid air ?.... did I NEED to have the background in Focus as well?....
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Post by the light works on Jan 21, 2013 14:55:03 GMT
Those who can, do. those who can't, teach. those who can't teach, teach others to teach.
addendum: those who can't do that nitpick on the internet.
you should have told the nitpicker: "the guy was in a race, he didn't have time to hold his pose while I selected the camera settings"
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 22, 2013 6:20:04 GMT
My Reply was could I have him on speed dial NEXT time Colin McRae was passing overhead..... As he wasnt there, I took the picture, MY way. I stopped posting on that board shortly after.... You get boards like that, the resident ex-spurt doesnt think anyone else can do it as good as them. The beauty of it was, when I investigated what he had suggested, the background WOULD have been in focus, but the car wouldnt?....
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Post by freegan on Jan 22, 2013 7:41:44 GMT
In any given situation there are always at least two good photographs, none of which is 'better' than another.
For example, in the situation Silver describes one would be that which Silver took which was of the action, another could have been of the observers responses to the action which, I presume, is what his critic was proposing.
Given that all present at the event were there to witness the action, Silver's shot of Colin McRae would have been the 'stock' shot that rally fans would appreciate the most whereas what I presume was his critic's suggested shot would have been a 'sociological record' of rally fans and, I suggest, would only have appealed to a non-fan of rally sport and would have been too easy a shot to set up that would not have demonstrated much of the photographer's skill.
It's always worth bearing in mind what shots are likely to be available, what shot you want to capture and preparing yourself and your equipment for that. Silver was there, knew what he wanted and got it. His critic wasn't even there.
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 22, 2013 9:17:28 GMT
Thank you..... Fans?... as I tried to explain, he passed at Head Height, I was shooting upwards, I got the car and a blur of greenery that was trees, and maybe part of the top of the hill..... I wanted the CAR, not the fans, and I got what I wanted. "Wider aperture" would have given trees in focus, greater depth of shot, and I risked the car getting fully blurred...?...but I got the front of the car in Focus, the back slightly blurred, and flying Mud from spinning tyres... perfection...
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Post by freegan on Jan 22, 2013 11:51:42 GMT
"Wider aperture" would have given trees in focus, greater depth of shot, " Wider aperture" ... greater depth? You want to reconsider that?
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 24, 2013 9:50:47 GMT
"Wider aperture" ... greater depth? You want to reconsider that? Erm..... Perhaps I should then?.... Written in a hurry and I didnt "Fact Check" my own post.... DOH! ..... Sometimes there is no accounting for stupid, and I aint an accountant anyway?... ;D
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Post by alabastersandman on Feb 9, 2013 11:08:24 GMT
As someone who has extensively used manual film cameras, I find the Sony Cybershot with the touch screen to be rather useful. It is 12.1 effective megapixels which is for most any use quite enough. For what it is it is fairly versatile and handles most situations well. I have to say I am fairly impressed with its handling of sky, it handle high contrast pretty well. It has a Carl Zeiss Vario-Tessar lens on it which was a big selling point for me. I have two Praktina 35mm SLR manual film cameras with Carl Zeiss glass that take incredibly sharp images and so does the Cybershot, if you can hold it steady. I have seen more than a couple Nikon lens articles with graphs and text comparing the two. Nikon likes to brag about how their lenses are very nearly as good as Zeiss glass, and indeed they are but... There is a fine line between too wide and zooming too far when photographing my pens, Too wide and I get distortion, too narrow and I lose resolution/contrast. When I hit it right though, it is brilliant.
Back to holding it steady, I find many of the smaller point and shoot cameras too light with springs that are too stiff under the go button. They are often awkward to hold and you have to push too hard to trip the shutter. My manual and Nikon N-90 cameras have some girth to them and it is easier to hold steady whilst tripping the shutter. The Cybershot has "SteadyShot" but using it seems to adversely affect the contrast, things go flat and grainy, same as with digital zoom or low light w/o flash. I does shoot video in HD 720p, stills 1080 full HD. I find 4mg to be adequate for most general purpose shooting, certainly sufficient for viewing on the computer.
The zoom is only 4x optical and worthless digital, use the digital zoom and you will end up with images that look like they were taken on old film. And getting back to the film camera's I love so much, they have something my Cybershot doesn't, interchangeable lenses. I miss that, I like to go downtown on occasion and shoot old architecture, a good zoom is a must to shoot detail on buildings.
I don't yet have a DSLR but it is definitely on the list of things to buy. Hopefully this isn't too incoherent, been juggling a three month old baby who is getting rowdy and typing, well not literally but...
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Post by the light works on Feb 9, 2013 14:53:28 GMT
you will love a DSLR, when the time comes. instant confirmation of whether you got the shot or not - along with good glass to get it with.
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Post by kharnynb on Feb 21, 2013 12:23:36 GMT
i only have two "camera's" an older 10D that i only rarely use nowadays. My phone, a nokia lumia 800 with a "good enough" build in camera. The best camera is the one you always have in hand
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Post by alabastersandman on Feb 23, 2013 16:25:34 GMT
Here is a photo I took of one of my dogs with the Sony TSC-T90 Cybershot sporting the Carl Zeiss Vario-tessar 3.5-4.6/6.18-24.7/Optical 4x/Optical SteadyShot. Shot at 2 megapixels if I remember correctly. I am posting them large for comparison, I'll try to keep other photos thumb-nailed as I'm not sure how to upload more than one image using the attachment tool. Full image Snout cropped and enlarged 400 x's Eye cropped and enlarged 1000 x's Not bad for a camera no thicker than my pinky.
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