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Post by wvengineer on Oct 9, 2015 21:52:17 GMT
Last winter was hard on me. The new job has a 35 minutes commute and ice was a big issues last winter. I got into one officail wreck due to ice and slid several times that I was able to recover from.
So this year I am getting snow tires. What do you have experience with and what do you recommend?
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Post by GTCGreg on Oct 9, 2015 23:11:16 GMT
Last winter was hard on me. The new job has a 35 minutes commute and ice was a big issues last winter. I got into one officail wreck due to ice and slid several times that I was able to recover from. So this year I am getting snow tires. What do you have experience with and what do you recommend? My own experience is snow tires make very little improvement on ice. If you are driving a lot on icy roads, studed tires are your best bet. That is if they are legal where you live. Many areas forbid them because of the damage they do to the roads.
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Post by the light works on Oct 10, 2015 3:10:01 GMT
I completely disagree. after using advanced formula studless winter tires, I certainly can't recommend studs. I've been out of the winter tire market for close to 15 years, but the ones I had - unfortunately still have because I was too tightfisted to give them away when I sold the car - were Toyo Observe.
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Post by GTCGreg on Oct 10, 2015 3:44:07 GMT
I completely disagree. after using advanced formula studless winter tires, I certainly can't recommend studs. I've been out of the winter tire market for close to 15 years, but the ones I had - unfortunately still have because I was too tightfisted to give them away when I sold the car - were Toyo Observe. You may be right. I haven't had much experience driving with just "winter" tires in some time. Maybe they are that much better on ice than they use to be. Back when studs were legal in Illinois, I had a set of studed snow tires. They made a huge improvement on ice over the same tires without studs. And the two winters I used them, we had plenty of ice to test them out on. At the time, you could legally use them from December through March. You could be ticketed for having them on your car outside that window of time. Studed tires are no longer allowed at anytime in Illinois.
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Post by the light works on Oct 10, 2015 3:54:41 GMT
I completely disagree. after using advanced formula studless winter tires, I certainly can't recommend studs. I've been out of the winter tire market for close to 15 years, but the ones I had - unfortunately still have because I was too tightfisted to give them away when I sold the car - were Toyo Observe. You may be right. I haven't had much experience driving with just "winter" tires in some time. Maybe they are that much better on ice than they use to be. Back when studs were legal in Illinois, I had a set of studed snow tires. They made a huge improvement on ice over the same tires without studs. And the two winters I used them, we had plenty of ice to test them out on. At the time, you could legally use them from December through March. You could be ticketed for having them on your car outside that window of time. Studed tires are no longer allowed at anytime in Illinois. Oregon still allows studs during the official snowy season and even extends the season if they feel it needful, but there was a much bigger difference between the summer tires and winter tires when I was running the Observes on my car (which was a bit spooky on ice with the summer tires) then in my pickup, which I ran 4 wheel studs on. (and the only time the studless weren't enough, it ultimately took diamond pattern chains and running in reverse to put the drive wheels at the back, where God intended, to get up the hill) I also had a time where I drove cautiously, out of concern for potential ice (and by cautiously, I mean I didn't speed, much) and found out on arrival at work, one of the other guys had spun out.
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Post by wvengineer on Oct 10, 2015 10:07:29 GMT
Studs are legal between November 1 and either March 31 or April 15, depending on what state you go by.
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Post by the light works on Oct 10, 2015 14:49:03 GMT
Studs are legal between November 1 and either March 31 or April 15, depending on what state you go by. it looks like greg is saying in his state, they don't allow any at all. Oregon only allows "lightweight" studs, which have a tungsten carbide core in an aluminum shell. apparently some legislator who makes up his own physics has determined that it is the fraction of an ounce the stud weighs that does the damage, rather than the 2 tons or more of SUV grinding it into the pavement. (US pavement, not UK pavement) (the same SUV that will not leave the garage so long as there is even a hint of frost on the ground.)
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Post by the light works on Oct 10, 2015 16:16:23 GMT
to elaborate on advanced compound tires: the principle behind the advanced compound is that it has a porous semipermeable contact layer that is intended to provide a combination of mechanical grip on any irregularity in the ice, as well as being more optimal for friction on the ice surface, itself. of course, the trade-off is more rapid wear on asphalt, but that's pretty much a given with any snow tires.
edit: the original was made with walnut hull sawdust in the rubber, which gives sort of the same principle as wearing wool socks over your shoes. when they first went back to it, they still used the walnut hull sawdust, but they may have changed materials, now.
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Post by silverdragon on Oct 11, 2015 9:25:29 GMT
Tyres, go for a deep tread "All weather" tyre, if you need more, you need to ask, should I be out in that?. Not that you dont have the skills, I suspect anyone here reading this has the skills... But who are you sharing the road with?.Its not you, its the other drivers, if you are asking questions, you know you may need to be a better driver, if they dont ask and run what they brung and usually drive summer tyres and conditions, they are an accident about to involve you. There have been times I have refused to drive, not because I cant do the drive, but in the first few days of "The big white", people have forgotten how to drive on snow, and I want them to get a few days practise before I go out... That and the Darwinism will take a few plonka's off the road in the first few days, so the roads will be less busy with fools.. they have already had their crashes, and I wasnt there. Chains. GET chains. If you never have to use them, good on yer... Dont get no elastic strap crud.... Go for CHAIN chains, the ones that look like the car is into bondage that would make 50 shades blush, ones that have a decent speed rating, not that you will use it at speed, its just that sort of denotes they are a good make. This is a snow chain....
This is RUBBER fetish.
this is plastic.
this is an "elastic strap" type holding it on...
This is the proper fasteners?...
Snow chains take a while to put on, anything that goes on easy, comes off twice as fast, and usually "Under load", as in, just when you need them the most.
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Post by wvengineer on Oct 11, 2015 12:10:01 GMT
The wreck I got in last year was on my way home from work. It morning was fine and the weather called for the storm to hit later in the day, So I didn't think it would be a problem to leave work when I did. I would have left earlier if I would have known. The drive was okay for the most part but one part is a bridge that's about 1000 ft long, on a good downgrade. When I watch the car in front of me slide sideways, all you can really do is say "oh sh**..." and slow down as much as you safely can before you hit the bridge. I ended up spinning around and bouncing off the guard rail. Damage was actually fairly light. A head and tail light needed replaced and some body work to fix the sheet metal. I have traction cables in both my vehicles. I have a set of Super Z6 cable chains by Security Chain Company in each car. They are great for getting my cars up the hill to my house. www.amazon.com/Security-Company-SZ135-Passenger-Pickups/dp/B000HZA2LAChains are great, but they only work when they are on the car. I want something that I can keep on full time. My concern is ice. If the snow is deep, I am not going out. The ice locally is what gets people throughout the winter. Additionally, with a baby due in Feburary (the peak of winter weather locally), I need to be able to get out of the house and to a hospital if needed. Calling local tire shops, two tires that I can easily get and are reasonably priced are the Hankook I-cept IZ W606 and the Goodyear Ultragrip WRZ Ice. Both are a studdable tire. Anyone have any expedience with either?
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Post by the light works on Oct 11, 2015 14:00:32 GMT
Tyres, go for a deep tread "All weather" tyre, if you need more, you need to ask, should I be out in that?. Not that you dont have the skills, I suspect anyone here reading this has the skills... But who are you sharing the road with?.Its not you, its the other drivers, if you are asking questions, you know you may need to be a better driver, if they dont ask and run what they brung and usually drive summer tyres and conditions, they are an accident about to involve you. There have been times I have refused to drive, not because I cant do the drive, but in the first few days of "The big white", people have forgotten how to drive on snow, and I want them to get a few days practise before I go out... That and the Darwinism will take a few plonka's off the road in the first few days, so the roads will be less busy with fools.. they have already had their crashes, and I wasnt there. Chains. GET chains. If you never have to use them, good on yer... Dont get no elastic strap crud.... Go for CHAIN chains, the ones that look like the car is into bondage that would make 50 shades blush, ones that have a decent speed rating, not that you will use it at speed, its just that sort of denotes they are a good make. Snow chains take a while to put on, anything that goes on easy, comes off twice as fast, and usually "Under load", as in, just when you need them the most.actually, in the US, at least, there are more than a few diamond pattern chain manufacturers who have realized their chain design is about as good as it can get, and cone on to making them easy to install, without being likely to fall off. the easiest I ran into was Whitestar, which I bought for my college girlfriend, because they were so easy even she could put them on, herself. (not the ex GF I like to badmouth this one was militantly incompetent at all things mechanical) - after seeing how they performed, I bought them for myself.
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Post by the light works on Oct 11, 2015 14:13:23 GMT
The wreck I got in last year was on my way home from work. It morning was fine and the weather called for the storm to hit later in the day, So I didn't think it would be a problem to leave work when I did. I would have left earlier if I would have known. The drive was okay for the most part but one part is a bridge that's about 1000 ft long, on a good downgrade. When I watch the car in front of me slide sideways, all you can really do is say "oh sh**..." and slow down as much as you safely can before you hit the bridge. I ended up spinning around and bouncing off the guard rail. Damage was actually fairly light. A head and tail light needed replaced and some body work to fix the sheet metal. I have traction cables in both my vehicles. I have a set of Super Z6 cable chains by Security Chain Company in each car. They are great for getting my cars up the hill to my house. www.amazon.com/Security-Company-SZ135-Passenger-Pickups/dp/B000HZA2LAChains are great, but they only work when they are on the car. I want something that I can keep on full time. My concern is ice. If the snow is deep, I am not going out. The ice locally is what gets people throughout the winter. Additionally, with a baby due in Feburary (the peak of winter weather locally), I need to be able to get out of the house and to a hospital if needed. Calling local tire shops, two tires that I can easily get and are reasonably priced are the Hankook I-cept IZ W606 and the Goodyear Ultragrip WRZ Ice. Both are a studdable tire. Anyone have any expedience with either? for me, cables fall into the category of "better than nothing, but not much" but if you like their performance, that's okay. for me, driving with cables on was like driving with 2 flat tires and a bad clutch. I've run both hankook and goodyear tires, but not those models. the basic design on both look similar to the Toyo Observe, and for me, the deciding factor would be that I think the goodyear will do better in slop, which is a factor to consider in my neck of the woods. I recommend getting a set of cheap aftermarket wheels - unless your tire center can give you a whopping good deal on someone else's old factory wheels - and keeping the snow tires permanently mounted on the wheels - that makes the change much faster, and reduces the possibility that something will get dinged in the changing process.
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Post by wvengineer on Oct 11, 2015 14:28:42 GMT
I use the chains for emergency use. Something to get me from the main road up the hill to my house and back down. If I have to run chains on the main roads, there is some emergency that I need to be out against my better judgement or I got caught in a storm while I was out and am trying to get home.
Regarding the extra rims, I defiantly want some, but I'll have to see what I can find that's in budget. I may call around to some local wrecking yards to see what they have.
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Post by silverdragon on Oct 11, 2015 14:36:23 GMT
Get to a scrap merchant, and if they have them in stock, second hand wheels should be about the price of a tyre. Having a complete set of wheels to mount seasonal tyres on saves an awful lot of mither. Give them a good check over, but second hand wheels are usually just fine. Just dont buy Alloys.... mud-pluggers need steel.
Here in UK, I use all-weather tyres all year round, I dont swap. You get the same mileage out of them as running a summer tyre, so whats the benefit?...Plus having weather like ours, it could only be a month that I would get usefulness of summer tyres anyway before I need the grip again for the wet?.
I have never needed to go full snow deep tread. I dont drive on those roads in my car... I may go there in a specially adapted vehicle. Back when I did mountain rescue, we had Land-rovers on full Mud tyres , as getting on the mud was a requirement, so we had to have the deep tread... they were also fantastic in snow, deep snow, and should we really be out in this?. But my car these days is Road Only.
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Post by silverdragon on Oct 11, 2015 14:38:20 GMT
I am realising this brings up a myth...
Just what exactly is the need for "Summer" tyres on a non-performance car?.
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Post by the light works on Oct 11, 2015 14:57:50 GMT
I use the chains for emergency use. Something to get me from the main road up the hill to my house and back down. If I have to run chains on the main roads, there is some emergency that I need to be out against my better judgement or I got caught in a storm while I was out and am trying to get home. Regarding the extra rims, I defiantly want some, but I'll have to see what I can find that's in budget. I may call around to some local wrecking yards to see what they have. I think I got a factory wheel for my spare tire on my car for $10.00. if you give the tire center some advance notice they may be able to find you a very good deal. my old pickup just got basic steel wheels for the snow tires.
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Post by the light works on Oct 11, 2015 15:01:29 GMT
I am realising this brings up a myth... Just what exactly is the need for "Summer" tyres on a non-performance car?. it all depends on the need for winter tires. if you need winter tires, you might as well have summer tires for the fun driving season. here it tends to be winter tires and everything-but-snow tires.
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Post by silverdragon on Oct 11, 2015 15:23:01 GMT
Definitions needed for..
"Summer" tyres. All weather tyres. Winter tyres.
If by Summer, you mean "black snot" minimum tread soft compound, they are illegal in UK.
If by Winter, you mean studded, again, metal studs are illegal in UK.
Metal studs may be used in deep snow only, as soon as you hit tarmac, they must be removed, the same as tyre chains.
Rubber studs, or heavy tread tyres, come in two categories, heavy tread that is legal, and "Site" tyres, that may be legal on certain vehicles on short distances (between fields for tractors) but is not legal long distance at speed. Mostly on use on all terrain or soft road vehicles are the normal all-round chunky tread that is legal for off-road use but also legal on normal roads.
"Winter" tyres in UK, are normally just the usual tyre we call "All weather", and run on all year, but get some deep fresh tread on just before winter....
In the pictures I posted above, under the Chains, those are ALL what we would call all-weather tyres in UK, and would be sort of the tread pattern you expect on normal tyres you buy when you need new. On "Normal" vehicles. Some "performance" vehicles may vary the result a lot. But your average "shopping trolley and kids taxi" family car would have them all year round.
So just how do your "Summer weight" tyres differ?.. do they give better grip on dry roads?.. how?..
Performance tyres on "Mid-life crisis" cars are exempt here from the discussion, we dont care what those people want to spend on tyres, this thread is for normal people, with normal "family" and work vehicles, not show-offs with more money than sense.... If you could pay off the mortgage on a 3bed semi in an Urban area for the same price as a set of tyres, please go to your own thread for this.
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Post by the light works on Oct 11, 2015 15:41:10 GMT
Definitions needed for.. "Summer" tyres. All weather tyres. Winter tyres. If by Summer, you mean "black snot" minimum tread soft compound, they are illegal in UK. If by Winter, you mean studded, again, metal studs are illegal in UK. Metal studs may be used in deep snow only, as soon as you hit tarmac, they must be removed, the same as tyre chains. Rubber studs, or heavy tread tyres, come in two categories, heavy tread that is legal, and "Site" tyres, that may be legal on certain vehicles on short distances (between fields for tractors) but is not legal long distance at speed. Mostly on use on all terrain or soft road vehicles are the normal all-round chunky tread that is legal for off-road use but also legal on normal roads. "Winter" tyres in UK, are normally just the usual tyre we call "All weather", and run on all year, but get some deep fresh tread on just before winter.... In the pictures I posted above, under the Chains, those are ALL what we would call all-weather tyres in UK, and would be sort of the tread pattern you expect on normal tyres you buy when you need new. On "Normal" vehicles. Some "performance" vehicles may vary the result a lot. But your average "shopping trolley and kids taxi" family car would have them all year round. So just how do your "Summer weight" tyres differ?.. do they give better grip on dry roads?.. how?.. Performance tyres on "Mid-life crisis" cars are exempt here from the discussion, we dont care what those people want to spend on tyres, this thread is for normal people, with normal "family" and work vehicles, not show-offs with more money than sense.... If you could pay off the mortgage on a 3bed semi in an Urban area for the same price as a set of tyres, please go to your own thread for this. ok, "Summer" tires: typically tires without a mud and snow rating, most often just used to refer to the tires used when a person who uses winter tires is not using the winter tires. this is representative of the summer tires for my Acura: "all weather" tires: tires intended to be competent in occasional ice or snow conditions, but not intended for frequent winter driving: "snow/winter tires": tires that sacrifice lifespan and sometimes also dry pavement traction for improved traction on ice and/or snow
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Post by silverdragon on Oct 11, 2015 15:47:59 GMT
In that case, UK roads are a mix of all weather and winter tyres. Dependant on type of vehicle. All use the all-weather... 4wheel drives of the SUV/Pickup/Soft-Roader type may use those deeper tread "winter" tyres.
If the tread is less than 1.6mm, its illegal, so I dont know exactly who would use the summer ones?... Are they cheep?... It looks a little "Part worn" to be honest, if its less than 4mm deep on the tread, no one would buy it here as it just wont last long enough. Yearly MOT checks would put a "Be aware" on tyre depths of less than 3mm, and start warning you about 4mm....
If they are the type of low rolling resistance energy efficient tyre, then those hybrid things use them.
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