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Post by rmc on Jun 14, 2023 17:03:21 GMT
Do you have a neighbor that's harassing you with noise that you're trying to catch? I'm just curious on what your motivation behind this is? The way I read the initial post, it seemed more hypothetical, but the drive you have for it, seems personal. I guess I'm just curious? Mention you have a neighbor who wakes you with obtrusive noise, and you might get empathy since "we've all gone through that"... However, mention that the noise very specifically targets your sleep, and you get a lot of "listen, pal, there's NO WAY that's happening... paranoid twit" Worse, having your REM sleep absolutely and specifically removed from your life is FAR WORSE than the more-accepted random noise annoyance. The more you try and explain this, the more weird you sound. Ultimately, I want to determine just exactly HOW a nextdoor apartment dweller can achieve this level of sophistication and intensity. . . So, to at least bear out what I declare, I'm attempting to use recordings to accurately illustrate what I EXPERIENCE. I need video/audio clips from around the clock, showing the silence while awake -- silence specifically regarding the "TWACK!" sounds. Also clips then showing the appearance of those "TWACK!" Sounds once I'm asleep. Moving my sleep schedule only has them adjusting to the new schedule. And, I'll also include recordings of my sleep state too, provided by a Pulse Ox meter system recording to an app on my cellphone. Correlating the appearance of these "TWACK" sounds once the pulse oximeter states I'm genuinely asleep, and we BEGIN to illustrate that my assertion isn't necessarily out of control paranoia. That's my hope, anyway. Addendum: Attempting to repurpose a multimeter such that it has an IR LED on it may not be necessary. I've found a quiet enough DC motor that I'm attempting to have it spin a mirror; where off camera, an incandescent bulb glows and might cause its reflection on the spinning mirror to act as a "moving IR event" for the camera. It might spin too fast for the camera's PIR sensor, however. Gearing it is out. As we've already seen how noisy that can be. More on that soon.
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Post by rmc on Jun 14, 2023 18:15:57 GMT
Results are in. Spinning a shiny aluminum mirror-like plate such that it reflects the IR of an incandescent bulb does nothing to wake the PIR sensor camera.
Plus, given there is some chance a fairly sophisticated microphone may be in use by the neighbor, there really is no way to be certain what I think is a quiet DC motor is actually quiet enough.
Back to searching for a silent way to drag an IR event through the frame view of the PIR equipped camera.
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Post by the light works on Jun 14, 2023 19:11:13 GMT
Results are in. Spinning a shiny aluminum mirror-like plate such that it reflects the IR of an incandescent bulb does nothing to wake the PIR sensor camera. Plus, given there is some chance a fairly sophisticated microphone may be in use by the neighbor, there really is no way to be certain what I think is a quiet DC motor is actually quiet enough. Back to searching for a silent way to drag an IR event through the frame view of the PIR equipped camera. belt drive with the LED on the big pulley? (loose leads to allow it to move freely, of course)
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Post by WhutScreenName on Jun 14, 2023 19:18:04 GMT
Do you have a neighbor that's harassing you with noise that you're trying to catch? I'm just curious on what your motivation behind this is? The way I read the initial post, it seemed more hypothetical, but the drive you have for it, seems personal. I guess I'm just curious? Mention you have a neighbor who wakes you with obtrusive noise, and you might get empathy since "we've all gone through that"... However, mention that the noise very specifically targets your sleep, and you get a lot of "listen, pal, there's NO WAY that's happening... paranoid twit" Worse, having your REM sleep absolutely and specifically removed from your life is FAR WORSE than the more-accepted random noise annoyance. The more you try and explain this, the more weird you sound. Ultimately, I want to determine just exactly HOW a nextdoor apartment dweller can achieve this level of sophistication and intensity. . . So, to at least bear out what I declare, I'm attempting to use recordings to accurately illustrate what I EXPERIENCE. I need video/audio clips from around the clock, showing the silence while awake -- silence specifically regarding the "TWACK!" sounds. Also clips then showing the appearance of those "TWACK!" Sounds once I'm asleep. Moving my sleep schedule only has them adjusting to the new schedule. And, I'll also include recordings of my sleep state too, provided by a Pulse Ox meter system recording to an app on my cellphone. Correlating the appearance of these "TWACK" sounds once the pulse oximeter states I'm genuinely asleep, and we BEGIN to illustrate that my assertion isn't necessarily out of control paranoia. That's my hope, anyway. Addendum: Attempting to repurpose a multimeter such that it has an IR LED on it may not be necessary. I've found a quiet enough DC motor that I'm attempting to have it spin a mirror; where off camera, an incandescent bulb glows and might cause its reflection on the spinning mirror to act as a "moving IR event" for the camera. It might spin too fast for the camera's PIR sensor, however. Gearing it is out. As we've already seen how noisy that can be. More on that soon. I sure hope you didn't take my question as any kind of insult or disbelief on my part. I was simply curious was all. As I said, I initially read it as hypothetical, but the more it's discussed, the more it seemed to be personal. Leading to my question. If I can be of any help, I'll certainly provide it. Good luck!
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Post by rmc on Jun 14, 2023 20:04:11 GMT
Results are in. Spinning a shiny aluminum mirror-like plate such that it reflects the IR of an incandescent bulb does nothing to wake the PIR sensor camera. Plus, given there is some chance a fairly sophisticated microphone may be in use by the neighbor, there really is no way to be certain what I think is a quiet DC motor is actually quiet enough. Back to searching for a silent way to drag an IR event through the frame view of the PIR equipped camera. belt drive with the LED on the big pulley? (loose leads to allow it to move freely, of course) Right now I'm leaning this direction: DC 5V 4W 0.8A 50N 5Kg Sucked Electric Lifting Magnet Electromagnet Sucked Metal a.co/d/iuPLvwiOne of these electromagnets operating in the 5 volt range (my previous assumption that the logic board provides 10 volts was in error. I was mistakenly using the AC setting on the voltmeter). Anyway, adhere an axle onto this cylinder shaped magnet, then arrange this electromagnet to be suspended within the field of a horseshoe bar magnet. When the electromagnet is energized, it turns on the axle to align itself with the field that the bar magnet is providing. If a spring is incorporated, once the power is cut, the electromagnetic goes back to its original position. An IR LED can be arranged atop of the axle such that it sweeps through an arc, given there is also an armature carrying the LED. It's all laid out in the previous video posted here about "The Moving Coil Instrument". First need to drag an IR LED through the field of view to ensure it's able to awaken the camera. The logic board provides 0 to 3 volts to the red LED used to make spooky ghost eyes. Using the formula: V(supply) - V(led)/I(led) Can be used to determine if a resistor is needed. And one is. Usually, red 5mm LED have an amperage of 0.02 Amps, and operate at 1.2 volt. Such, that in the above equation, it is determined a resistor of 90 ohms is to be included on any IR LED of similar specifications to the red LED.
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Post by rmc on Jun 14, 2023 20:28:57 GMT
Mention you have a neighbor who wakes you with obtrusive noise, and you might get empathy since "we've all gone through that"... However, mention that the noise very specifically targets your sleep, and you get a lot of "listen, pal, there's NO WAY that's happening... paranoid twit" Worse, having your REM sleep absolutely and specifically removed from your life is FAR WORSE than the more-accepted random noise annoyance. The more you try and explain this, the more weird you sound. Ultimately, I want to determine just exactly HOW a nextdoor apartment dweller can achieve this level of sophistication and intensity. . . So, to at least bear out what I declare, I'm attempting to use recordings to accurately illustrate what I EXPERIENCE. I need video/audio clips from around the clock, showing the silence while awake -- silence specifically regarding the "TWACK!" sounds. Also clips then showing the appearance of those "TWACK!" Sounds once I'm asleep. Moving my sleep schedule only has them adjusting to the new schedule. And, I'll also include recordings of my sleep state too, provided by a Pulse Ox meter system recording to an app on my cellphone. Correlating the appearance of these "TWACK" sounds once the pulse oximeter states I'm genuinely asleep, and we BEGIN to illustrate that my assertion isn't necessarily out of control paranoia. That's my hope, anyway. Addendum: Attempting to repurpose a multimeter such that it has an IR LED on it may not be necessary. I've found a quiet enough DC motor that I'm attempting to have it spin a mirror; where off camera, an incandescent bulb glows and might cause its reflection on the spinning mirror to act as a "moving IR event" for the camera. It might spin too fast for the camera's PIR sensor, however. Gearing it is out. As we've already seen how noisy that can be. More on that soon. I sure hope you didn't take my question as any kind of insult or disbelief on my part. I was simply curious was all. As I said, I initially read it as hypothetical, but the more it's discussed, the more it seemed to be personal. Leading to my question. If I can be of any help, I'll certainly provide it. Good luck! All I ask is just assume this is hypothetical, that in this hypothetical situation it is an established given that, in two nextdoor apartments, one apartment dweller is fully able to determine the wakefulness state of the other individual living in the apartment below. Once all of that is assumed true, the help I desperately need is some sort of believable proposal on any theoretical means that the apartment dweller above could ascertain the state (accurately ascertain the state) of the individual below. Microphone? Which microphone? Are these available on "the dark web"? What sort of technology are people able to get their stubby little hands on anyway! And, I take no offense to questions like yours. My family, on the other hand, is getting done with all of this and juuuust wants me to shut up already. That's hard. And, then there's the police that insist I better not DO ANYTHING!! We're watching YOU (meaning me). That's even harder.
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Post by the light works on Jun 14, 2023 22:04:50 GMT
belt drive with the LED on the big pulley? (loose leads to allow it to move freely, of course) Right now I'm leaning this direction: DC 5V 4W 0.8A 50N 5Kg Sucked Electric Lifting Magnet Electromagnet Sucked Metal a.co/d/iuPLvwiOne of these electromagnets operating in the 5 volt range (my previous assumption that the logic board provides 10 volts was in error. I was mistakenly using the AC setting on the voltmeter). Anyway, adhere an axle onto this cylinder shaped magnet, then arrange this electromagnet to be suspended within the field of a horseshoe bar magnet. When the electromagnet is energized, it turns on the axle to align itself with the field that the bar magnet is providing. If a spring is incorporated, once the power is cut, the electromagnetic goes back to its original position. An IR LED can be arranged atop of the axle such that it sweeps through an arc, given there is also an armature carrying the LED. It's all laid out in the previous video posted here about "The Moving Coil Instrument". First need to drag an IR LED through the field of view to ensure it's able to awaken the camera. The logic board provides 0 to 3 volts to the red LED used to make spooky ghost eyes. Using the formula: V(supply) - V(led)/I(led) Can be used to determine if a resistor is needed. And one is. Usually, red 5mm LED have an amperage of 0.02 Amps, and operate at 1.2 volt. Such, that in the above equation, it is determined a resistor of 90 ohms is to be included on any IR LED of similar specifications to the red LED. yep, definitely check to see if the moving LED is enough trigger, before buying hardware to make the LED move. for that matter, you could theoretically test it with a standard TV remote, just need a trigger and motion mechanism that isn't warm on its own.
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Post by rmc on Jun 15, 2023 23:16:22 GMT
For now, I'll forego the IR LED and continue using this 4.5 volt old timey incandescent flashlight lightbulb I just found. I literally just pulled it out of an old flashlight I had. I wired it up and when lit, it was able to wake the ReoLink camera - if it traced out an inch long path on screen, when the light was 6 to 7 inches away from the camera.
I prefer working with a component that I can physically see working. The IR stuff could end up a kind of mystery since, well, I cannot see if it's REALLY on or not.
. .
To get the lightbulb to wiggle an inch up and down, I'll place it at the end of a semirigid wire (flexible, wiggly wire when long enough), and then teeter-totter that like a seesaw at the end of an electromagnet and spring.
Let me man-splain that a bit more in detail since it's a whole new idea here:
A short, cylindrical electromagnet lays on its side, in the same manner that an automobile wheel or five cent coin might. The circular face oriented skyward is the pulling surface of the magnet. Upon this face, place a thin iron sheet. When the magnet is energized, the thin iron sheet is stuck across the top of the magnet. And, obviously, when the magnet is off, the iron sheet could be removed, however gravity allows it to stay there.
Now, to get a lever that can wiggle using this magnet, place a hinge at the left edge (iron sheet is now hinged to the left edge of the circular magnet face) while over on the right edge, place a weak spring (like one out of a ballpoint pen).
The hinged edge of the iron sheet allows the sheet to be tilted. And might be angled to maybe 30 degrees, possibly less... depends upon the pulling strength of the magnet. The spring attached to the right edge of the magnet is under the iron sheet, and holds that end of the sheet such that the iron sheet is now oriented at an angle likely not more than 30 degrees upward, left to right.
Glue the flexible wires onto this iron sheet "ramp", and when the magnet is powered up, the spring is compressed and the iron sheet dips (at the right edge), wiggling or flapping the wire, further off to the right. When the power is off, the iron sheet rises by spring force, again wiggling the wire.
The circuit that controls the electromagnet is the circuit that used to power "spooky glowing eyes" and voltage varies from 0 to 3 volts DC over and over for 25 seconds.
Now, this circuit will vary voltage to an electromagnet instead.
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Post by rmc on Jun 17, 2023 23:25:51 GMT
Targeted REM Sleep Deprivation (TRaSheD) A means to deprive REM sleep is discussed in the link below. The method was developed specifically to deprive rats of REM sleep by setting up a cage where the platform is angled just enough and slick enough that once muscle tone is lost when entering true deep sleep, the rat slips down the embankment and is plunged into shallow water. The rat, once awake can climb out and get back to the only dry spot; back atop the platform. Blood drawn from these specimens showed significant increases in inflammatory substances known to alter brain condition. A markedly different process having somewhat similar sleep depriving capabilities was said to have been employed by Thomas Edison. In his technique, he would hold a heavy object while resting at his desk. Once truly asleep, the heavy item would fall to the ground, make a noise and wake Mr. Edison such that he was only allowed to "micro sleep", thereby increasing productivity by way of tapping into the supposed power of the twilight mind. On the one hand, a study and experiment shows targeting deep sleep hurts the brain. While an anecdote about Thomas Edison declares sleep deprivation is key to productivity. I'm going to side with the rats on this one. Having REM sleep specifically removed from your life hurts, and is, I think, far worse than occasional random sleep disruption; which is what most so called sleep deprivation actually is. www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8157773/
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Post by rmc on Jun 21, 2023 2:03:14 GMT
I needed a sound activated camera that includes a few seconds before the triggering sound.
Those don't exist.
ReoLink has a camera that on motion detection, includes a few seconds prior to the triggering movement.
So, I set out to change this motion detector camera into the sort of sound detector camera that I needed (the kind that includes pre-event recording).
The first idea I had seemed simple. Just use some kind of sound activated toy that moves when activated.
Problem is, though, ReoLink wants motion that has warmth (an infrared event to wake the camera).
So I got a wobbly sound-activated toy and added an incandescent light bulb. Though that works, the noises the toy made when wobbling had to go - just too noisy! Way too easy to confuse toy noises for the noises that we are supposed to be hearing out in the environment.
So, I took out the toy's micro DC electric motor and replaced it with a "sucking electromagnet"... that's what it's called!
As I outlined above somewhere, the sucking electromagnet pulls on a piece of metal that carries the wires leading to the incandescent lightbulb. The result is that when a snap is heard, both the lightbulb and the electromagnet switch on. The magnet provides a degree of movement for the lightbulb. Once power is off, a small spring swings it back into the initial position.
In the video below, on the left is my cellphone, showing a small white circle in the upper right when ReoLink has awoken to record. The ReoLink camera is in that part of the screen too. The white, Reolink camera is on its side (no stand for it). Next, to the right is the lightbulb suspended by wire. Further to the right is the electromagnet. And over to the right still more is what's remaining of the original wobbly sound activated toy. And, the little circular disk sort of in front of all that is the toy's sound detector.
The clip at the end of the video is the clip ReoLink makes. It's the video from the point of view of the ReoLink camera.
It's these clips that I'm ultimately after. They are automatically shot, recorded and stored, completely eliminating the need for me to review footage, listening for sounds I want to notate and store.
Sloppy video to be certain. The toy is in a sloppy state too by this point as well.
Just proof of concept, I guess.
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Post by the light works on Jun 21, 2023 5:26:20 GMT
I know nothing about the patent process, but at this point I'd say, patent the idea of a sound triggered camera that "prestarts" when it hears a noise.
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Post by WhutScreenName on Jun 21, 2023 12:39:57 GMT
I know nothing about the patent process, but at this point I'd say, patent the idea of a sound triggered camera that "prestarts" when it hears a noise. Worth looking into. And the setup seems to be coming along very nicely! Your 'proof of concept' appears to work as expected. Good luck now on deploying and capturing the sounds you wish to get!
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Post by rmc on Jun 21, 2023 15:43:26 GMT
I know nothing about the patent process, but at this point I'd say, patent the idea of a sound triggered camera that "prestarts" when it hears a noise. Worth looking into. And the setup seems to be coming along very nicely! Your 'proof of concept' appears to work as expected. Good luck now on deploying and capturing the sounds you wish to get! Sadly, actually I'm kind of stuck... I've gone to my local maker's group and it's widely agreed there are other available means to do this with respect to industry. Using software. So, trying to patent this particular means of doing it, and the other arguably similar ways, is very much a dead end street. It's the same sad story in regard to my camera stabilization product, back in the 1990s. Once the Garrett Brown Patent for steadicam went beyond the 20 year protection mark, some friends and I were ready for a version of our own. But, after dealing with that for about five years, it became obvious that the wider public didn't really want giant backpacks and arms and all that, regardless if we had the price down many tens of thousands of dollars. ($750 to $1,500 vs. $50,000). What was becoming popular was camera stabilization done in camera, electronically. So, electronics and software killed that idea effectively enough. One friend who was kind of a big shot in Hollywood took over the "CineGlide" and I wished him well. Meanwhile, the Omaha Maker's Group quickly outlined how this particular camera trick involving the lightbulb would quickly suffer a similar fate and I believe them. The primary problem now, just for making what I have practical for my own personal use is making it robust enough to operate more than just a few times. What I have is a balance between weight force, spring force, and magnetic force. The bulb is currently directly soldered to wires. Such that when it's time to replace the bulb, it has to be re soldered. To add a bulb socket increases weight and throws off the spring and magnet relationship. Plus the copper wires end up drooping over time, such that a more robust and permanent solution should be incorporated. But, again, making it heavier causes big issues with both the lifting force of the return spring, and dropping force of the magnet. Too much dropping force and "tack!" we hear the click of the metal slamming together too strongly. Everything is in careful balance now. And, it took a great deal to get there. But, it won't work very long as it is... So, looks like I'm only beginning to address this need. I'll include two other videos here of some other projects I tried to solve. From these, I think you can quickly see the limited nature of my "maker" capabilities. I may think up stuff, but I'm only so-so at bringing them to life. Bill Blake and the "CineGlide" circa 1994: images.app.goo.gl/5DSvYFDK7xowFwSm8
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Post by the light works on Jun 22, 2023 2:24:49 GMT
I wasn't thinking fo patenting that device - I was thinking of using that device to prove nobody else has thought of the idea, yet.
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Post by rmc on Jun 22, 2023 8:43:25 GMT
I wasn't thinking fo patenting that device - I was thinking of using that device to prove nobody else has thought of the idea, yet. Patent search.
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