|
|
Post by maxman on Jan 15, 2013 4:33:24 GMT
Let's say I just bought a '91 Suburban, and the previous owner installed a set of 33x12.5x15 mud/snow tires on aluminum rims, and I wanted to use factory-size tires and steel rims (which I can get for under $100, surprisingly).
How much would those tires and rims be worth if I sold them?
|
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Jan 15, 2013 6:37:39 GMT
it depends on the age and condition. I think I got $25 a piece credit when I dumped my mud tires in favor of all terrain tires. (got tired of listening to them howling as I drove - and the fact that they were hopeless on everything but mud) not sure why you want to get rid of the wheels, though. factory size tires, or slightly wider should fit them just fine; and unless they are a poor choice of wheels, or you plan on overloading your suburban, there will be no strength issues.
OTOH, I've got 4 snow tires on wheels from my Acura, and in the 11 years since I sold the car without them, I haven't been able to get them unloaded AT ALL.
|
|
|
|
Post by User Unavailable on Jan 15, 2013 18:03:01 GMT
Yeah, used tires and rims are hard to get rid of in my experience. They are only worth what the one person you find who wants them is willing to pay for them.
If they are in good condition and look good, you will likely get a better deal at a tire store/shop than if you try to sell them yourself.
When I went back to my stock rims/tires on my old 1980 Chevy, 1/2 ton, SWB, Scottsdale, I tried for 4 or 5 years to sell the 60R15 tires and chrome 8 spoke rims. Price got lower and lower, was finally a "best offer" and ended up being, "Hey, I need to get these out of my way, you can have them and I'll even load them in your truck." That's how I finally got rid of them.
|
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Jan 15, 2013 18:21:57 GMT
Yeah, used tires and rims are hard to get rid of in my experience. They are only worth what the one person you find who wants them is willing to pay for them. If they are in good condition and look good, you will likely get a better deal at a tire store/shop than if you try to sell them yourself. When I went back to my stock rims/tires on my old 1980 Chevy, 1/2 ton, SWB, Scottsdale, I tried for 4 or 5 years to sell the 60R15 tires and chrome 8 spoke rims. Price got lower and lower, was finally a "best offer" and ended up being, "Hey, I need to get these out of my way, you can have them and I'll even load them in your truck." That's how I finally got rid of them. my biggest challenge is finding another car they will fit. if I'd known, I would have unloaded them when I traded in the car... but the dealer didn't want to give me anything for them. |
|
|
|
Post by User Unavailable on Jan 15, 2013 19:58:21 GMT
TLW, Try taking them to a junkyard that deals in used car parts.
May not get much, but at least you'll get them out of your way.
|
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Jan 15, 2013 20:23:50 GMT
TLW, Try taking them to a junkyard that deals in used car parts. May not get much, but at least you'll get them out of your way. right now, I'm waiting to see if my BIL's new car can mount 15" wheels. if so, I can give them to him in exchange for finding a buyer for the wheels. (which don't fit his car) |
|
|
|
Post by maxman on Jan 15, 2013 22:47:47 GMT
The rims and tires are six bolt, in very good condition, and it looks like most of the tread is still left. But, would it be possible to mount P235/75/R15s on 8-12 inch wide rims?
However, it looks like I won't be buying it. When I emailed the seller yesterday, he told me $1000 and it's mine. When I asked if he would go lower, he never responded, not even to say no.
Today, however, he started a new ad, this time asking $1500, and apparently the rear doors have been sold.
Just as well, though. It looks like it has four bucket seats and a console (though the third row bench is still there), and a chain link steering wheel. Plus there's also a same year Chevy Suburban (though the front clip is older than 1991...) also for sale in my area that would probably be a better buy.
|
|
|
|
Post by maxman on Jan 17, 2013 2:42:11 GMT
According to the seller's other ad (for a 350), he's pulled the engine (this isn't something I just found out, mind you; the ad's been up since December 18). This isn't of much worry, since it had 375,000 kms (about ~225,000 miles), so it'd probably need a rebuild anyway.
So, I'm thinking $400 if the interior, doors/tailgate and transmission are still there, since I'm going to have to tow it and hunt down a new engine (I would have paid $1000 or near it if it was all together and I could actually drive it home instead of having it towed).
Fortunately, someone in Grimsby is selling a rebuilt 350 with only 60,000 kms (35,000 miles) on the rebuild, for $500. So I'm thinking asking price if I can hear it run and it's ready to be loaded on my trailer when I get there, $400 if I can't hear it run, but it's ready to go, and $300 if I can't hear it run and I have to load it on my trailer on my own.
|
|
|
|
Post by maxman on Jan 22, 2013 3:22:50 GMT
The seller of the Chevy finally responded to my email (the first truck was a GMC).
He scrapped the truck a few weeks ago (but didn't bother to edit the ad).
So, back to square one.
|
|
|
|
Post by maxman on Jan 24, 2013 18:02:43 GMT
Also the $30 tires have been sold.
|
|
|
|
Post by maxman on Jul 11, 2013 3:29:26 GMT
New topic.
If a 1991 Suburban with a 350 and 700 R4 has 340,000 kms (211,266 miles), should it be rebuilt, swapped or left alone if it doesn't have any issues?
There's a 91 for sale for $1400 (though with that mileage Edmunds says it's worth $876), with factory size tires and rims but with front and middle row captains seats, and has apparently had front end work (which hopefully means they replaced the ball joints, control arm bushings and tie rod ends).
|
|
|
|
Post by GTCGreg on Jul 11, 2013 4:10:20 GMT
Just drive it until 3 of the 4 wheels fall off.
|
|
|
|
Post by the light works on Jul 11, 2013 16:41:35 GMT
I traded in my 93 van with 299000 miles on the odometer. saw it on the road a couple years later.
|
|
|
|
Post by User Unavailable on Jul 11, 2013 21:26:44 GMT
If it runs good and has no issues, there is no reason to swap out or repair anything until an issue arises. Just do routine maintenance and keep on driving.
|
|
|
|
Post by maxman on Jul 12, 2013 4:36:16 GMT
Based on the photos, the only thing I can see that's wrong with it is the driver's taillight is broken and there's rust on the rocker panels.
The taillight I can buy for about $8 from Rock Auto (plus $8 shipping), and new rocker panels are about $10-$30 and can be installed by cutting out the rusted parts and riviting in the new panels.
Though it's not as severe as his Dodge.
Other than that, the body looks solid. It also has a set of new Arctic Claw snow tires, which from what I can tell are a good brand, but I'd have to buy a set of summer tires.
|
|
|
|
Post by maxman on Jul 12, 2013 10:56:02 GMT
If it runs good and has no issues, there is no reason to swap out or repair anything until an issue arises. Just do routine maintenance and keep on driving. Still, running SeaFoam through the engine wouldn't be a bad idea. |
|
|
|
Post by User Unavailable on Jul 12, 2013 19:52:48 GMT
If it runs good and has no issues, there is no reason to swap out or repair anything until an issue arises. Just do routine maintenance and keep on driving. Still, running SeaFoam through the engine wouldn't be a bad idea. Don't know. I've never used it. I just use injector/fuel system cleaners added through the gas tank. Back in the day of carburetors, I would use a little carb cleaner every now and then. |
|
|
|
Post by maxman on Jul 15, 2013 20:21:55 GMT
I've used it twice so far, and it works great.
It's a fuel system cleaner and is 100% petroleum, and can be used several ways: In the fuel tank, through a vacuum hose, or in the crank case to flush before an oil change (it doesn't increase the volume much so it's not necessary to drain any oil).
Added to a vacuum hose to the throttle body, it softens carbon in the cylinders, then burns it off, creating a cloud of white smoke.
|
|
