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Post by the light works on Jan 17, 2017 20:30:11 GMT
I think half the problem is that we are trying to push lithium batteries to higher charge/discharge rates than we really should. my old flip phone never heated up as hot as my smartphones do.
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 18, 2017 10:26:21 GMT
And all those pairs have to be checked and wired in the right socket. Then there is all the other wires from Mic's, that have to be labelled, or colour coded, or tagged, and you always get "one" you have no idea what the source is?. And how does the sound engineer check out all those lines? With the help of one of these. Sound guys love them. I know because I make them. You'd be surprised at how many panic calls I've gotten saying; "I have a big set-up this weekend and lost my Tone Plug, can you drop ship me one overnight?" Shipping ends up costing twice the cost of the plug but they buy it anyway. I had one sound man ask me why I didn't put a neck cord on it so it wouldn't get lost so easily. I told him because that would be bad for repeat sales. for finding the right wire, Two words, "Bell Box" [well, not a bell as such, its a small piezo buzzer?..] I still have mine somewhere, it runs on two AA batteries, I could have made it a LOT smaller, 'cept, well, why would I do that when a smaller one could be lost so easily?.. Its encased in a black plastic box that has been wrapped in several dozen yards of yellow electrical tape. That makes it easier to see, and not just that, the tape can be removed in short lengths to make emergency repairs. It just large enough to fit inside a roll of duck tape.. and in fact can hold snugly two rolls of duck tape. Again, for a good reason. It has two wires that end in insulated crocodile clips, you make connections, and then run to the other end of the wire and short out the "suspected" connection, if the bell rings, you got the right one. My Multi-tester has a buzzer function on it as well, but, I prefer the home made one for some reason?. The testing part, well, yeah, but I am just there to lay the wires, not test the equipment?..
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Post by the light works on Jan 18, 2017 14:05:43 GMT
my simple tester is a little box with a couple leads and clips, as you say, and also a telephone plug, since it is designed to test telephone lines. it has a switch and a light, and it can tell me if a telephone jack is getting a proper dial tone - which is the ability I use the least. then I can switch it to a go/no go continuity test,which I also rarely use except to tell me if what I am testing will support the key feature - if the wires I am testing are not shorted, I can impose an emf signal on the wires - and then I have a wand that does absolutely nothing but turn EMF signals to sound.
so I can hook up the boxm and then wave the wand around until I pick up the signal, and then follow it to where the other end of the wire is. the closer to the wire, the louder and clearer the signal, and if I short the two wires, the signal disappears.
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Post by GTCGreg on Jan 18, 2017 18:52:05 GMT
my simple tester is a little box with a couple leads and clips, as you say, and also a telephone plug, since it is designed to test telephone lines. it has a switch and a light, and it can tell me if a telephone jack is getting a proper dial tone - which is the ability I use the least. then I can switch it to a go/no go continuity test,which I also rarely use except to tell me if what I am testing will support the key feature - if the wires I am testing are not shorted, I can impose an emf signal on the wires - and then I have a wand that does absolutely nothing but turn EMF signals to sound. so I can hook up the boxm and then wave the wand around until I pick up the signal, and then follow it to where the other end of the wire is. the closer to the wire, the louder and clearer the signal, and if I short the two wires, the signal disappears. I've used the inductive type wire tracers and they work great on telephone type twisted pair. With the twisted pair that the sound community uses, each pair is individually shielded so it is much harder tracing the wire with this type of tracer. You can, however, still usually pick up the signal at the connector end so it's great in trying to identify which connector is which. That's pretty much all the sound guy wants to know. He already knows where the wires are routed. The Tone Plug tester I designed was made exclusively for sound system operators. It has a lot more specialized test functions than just tracing wire. I've sold over 5000 of them, so somebody seems to like them.
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Post by the light works on Jan 18, 2017 23:55:09 GMT
my simple tester is a little box with a couple leads and clips, as you say, and also a telephone plug, since it is designed to test telephone lines. it has a switch and a light, and it can tell me if a telephone jack is getting a proper dial tone - which is the ability I use the least. then I can switch it to a go/no go continuity test,which I also rarely use except to tell me if what I am testing will support the key feature - if the wires I am testing are not shorted, I can impose an emf signal on the wires - and then I have a wand that does absolutely nothing but turn EMF signals to sound. so I can hook up the boxm and then wave the wand around until I pick up the signal, and then follow it to where the other end of the wire is. the closer to the wire, the louder and clearer the signal, and if I short the two wires, the signal disappears. I've used the inductive type wire tracers and they work great on telephone type twisted pair. With the twisted pair that the sound community uses, each pair is individually shielded so it is much harder tracing the wire with this type of tracer. You can, however, still usually pick up the signal at the connector end so it's great in trying to identify which connector is which. That's pretty much all the sound guy wants to know. He already knows where the wires are routed. The Tone Plug tester I designed was made exclusively for sound system operators. It has a lot more specialized test functions than just tracing wire. I've sold over 5000 of them, so somebody seems to like them. that's why you split the pairs. cat 5 does a pretty good job of dampening the signal, too. my advanced tester does a few more features, like having separate smart terminations you can use for wiremapping and also for making sure all your terminations are right. the one I haven't bought also runs a complete bandwidth test. as well as having a software adjustable capacitance test; which basically tells you how long the wire is; as long as you know the correct multiplier for the wire you are testing - and I have a cheat sheet for popular comm wires.
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 19, 2017 9:37:35 GMT
This is getting way beyond my technical level of working... Take an Rj45 plug lead, test it between two known machines, if you get a "lan", then its working, if not, throw it away and grab the next... I suppose in a way that replicates the way your doing it with a Multi-Tester?.. but I am just buying them in 10 25 and 35 "meter" lengths because they dont do sensible foot measurement any more, its 20ft between that computer and that one, having to buy the cable in meters does not mean I now have to move the computers does it?.. it just means I have a longer length of slack?.
And by computer, I mean, either modem to computer, modem to modem, or local lan for data transfer between lan storage and tower system.
If it works it works, if it doesnt, get a refund.?.. I know, maybe this is too simple a way of doing things, but I dont much go into making my own anymore...
I will meter out between certain connections to prove a wire in place is working if its a long thing stuck inside conduit and I suspect it may be the driver that needs updating, but thats about it.
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Post by GTCGreg on Jan 19, 2017 15:01:52 GMT
I don't think I have ever purchased a preterminated LAN cable. It's just too easy to make your own the correct length.
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Post by the light works on Jan 19, 2017 15:17:11 GMT
This is getting way beyond my technical level of working... Take an Rj45 plug lead, test it between two known machines, if you get a "lan", then its working, if not, throw it away and grab the next... I suppose in a way that replicates the way your doing it with a Multi-Tester?.. but I am just buying them in 10 25 and 35 "meter" lengths because they dont do sensible foot measurement any more, its 20ft between that computer and that one, having to buy the cable in meters does not mean I now have to move the computers does it?.. it just means I have a longer length of slack?. And by computer, I mean, either modem to computer, modem to modem, or local lan for data transfer between lan storage and tower system. If it works it works, if it doesnt, get a refund.?.. I know, maybe this is too simple a way of doing things, but I dont much go into making my own anymore... I will meter out between certain connections to prove a wire in place is working if its a long thing stuck inside conduit and I suspect it may be the driver that needs updating, but thats about it. keep in mind I get called on now and again to put the things into walls. and the connectors I am putting on are the OTHER half of the RJ45.
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Post by Lokifan on Jan 19, 2017 16:42:35 GMT
If you're putting cables in a wall, pay the extra money and get CAT6 or even CAT6A.
Otherwise, you run the risk of technology forcing an upgrade in the future.
Of course, a friend of mine who wired his remodeled house for CAT6 now never uses it--he went wireless.
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Post by the light works on Jan 19, 2017 16:52:49 GMT
If you're putting cables in a wall, pay the extra money and get CAT6 or even CAT6A. Otherwise, you run the risk of technology forcing an upgrade in the future. Of course, a friend of mine who wired his remodeled house for CAT6 now never uses it--he went wireless. unless they've improved the cable, what is cat6 in the box is generally only cat5 by the time it gets in the wall. of course, when I was working for brand X, they spent the money for cat 5 cable, and then installed it to cat 1 standards. that was about when I stuck this picture in my clipboard, to remind me of their standard of excellence.
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Post by GTCGreg on Jan 19, 2017 17:07:02 GMT
If you're putting cables in a wall, pay the extra money and get CAT6 or even CAT6A. Otherwise, you run the risk of technology forcing an upgrade in the future. Of course, a friend of mine who wired his remodeled house for CAT6 now never uses it--he went wireless. Sometimes wireless just doesn't cut it. I replaced the projection system in our home theater with a 75" smart TV. The TV has a NETFLIX app as well as a WiFi and hard LAN connection. It seemed to have problems streaming video over WiFi, often buffering or just locking up. I ran a hardwire LAN cable to it and all the problems went away. Yet when I test the speed of the WiFi, it's always running around 35 Mbps. That should be plenty fast enough to stream video, although the hard wire LAN does run a lot faster at 80 to 90 Mbps.
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Post by the light works on Jan 19, 2017 17:25:08 GMT
If you're putting cables in a wall, pay the extra money and get CAT6 or even CAT6A. Otherwise, you run the risk of technology forcing an upgrade in the future. Of course, a friend of mine who wired his remodeled house for CAT6 now never uses it--he went wireless. Sometimes wireless just doesn't cut it. I replaced the projection system in our home theater with a 75" smart TV. The TV has a NETFLIX app as well as a WiFi and hard LAN connection. It seemed to have problems streaming video over WiFi, often buffering or just locking up. I ran a hardwire LAN cable to it and all the problems went away. Yet when I test the speed of the WiFi, it's always running around 35 Mbps. That should be plenty fast enough to stream video, although the hard wire LAN does run a lot faster at 80 to 90 Mbps. the last house I finished, I needed to add a hard network connection to the computer station, because the telecommute software wasn't stable on wireless. fortunately, it was all in attic space.
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Post by GTCGreg on Jan 19, 2017 17:51:40 GMT
Sometimes wireless just doesn't cut it. I replaced the projection system in our home theater with a 75" smart TV. The TV has a NETFLIX app as well as a WiFi and hard LAN connection. It seemed to have problems streaming video over WiFi, often buffering or just locking up. I ran a hardwire LAN cable to it and all the problems went away. Yet when I test the speed of the WiFi, it's always running around 35 Mbps. That should be plenty fast enough to stream video, although the hard wire LAN does run a lot faster at 80 to 90 Mbps. the last house I finished, I needed to add a hard network connection to the computer station, because the telecommute software wasn't stable on wireless. fortunately, it was all in attic space. Smoke, mirrors and magic just isn't as reliable as a solid chunk of copper.
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Post by the light works on Jan 19, 2017 18:04:25 GMT
the last house I finished, I needed to add a hard network connection to the computer station, because the telecommute software wasn't stable on wireless. fortunately, it was all in attic space. Smoke, mirrors and magic just isn't as reliable as a solid chunk of copper. speaking of which, our storm related power issues yesterday morning let the smoke out of the critical motor for the local post office's HVAC system. now the mirrors aren't working.
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 20, 2017 7:23:26 GMT
I don't think I have ever purchased a preterminated LAN cable. It's just too easy to make your own the correct length. starting here.... You ever tried buying Lan cable from general hardware stores?.. I only know of two places I can get it, one is Maplins, and the other is well out of my way... Or just above the shelf with the reel on in Maplins, there they are, cut and spliced, at cheaper than its worth arguing about ready made ones?.. Or Walmart/Asda supermarket types when you can pick up one almost every day and no petrol costs getting it as you just add it to your grocery list. The greatest run was from upstairs to downstairs to the downstairs MODEM, and then sideways from upstairs to the Kids bedroom MODEM, both were done on 10 meter cables, at about £15 each, and as for worth, they are both reporting back 100 meg speeds in use. I think the were Cat5 at time of purchace. As for the house going Wireless, aint happening. Our wireless reports back 8 meg at its slowest, 30 meg at its fastest, we're supposed to be getting 200 meg wired, but we dont, 150 is about the top speed we get and the wireless is just bloody awful because of too many people using it in the area... Yeah, work that out, our own local lan channel which works out automatically what is quietest, suffers from other people on other networks dragging the speed down?..
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Post by the light works on Jan 20, 2017 7:40:00 GMT
I don't think I have ever purchased a preterminated LAN cable. It's just too easy to make your own the correct length. starting here.... You ever tried buying Lan cable from general hardware stores?.. I only know of two places I can get it, one is Maplins, and the other is well out of my way... Or just above the shelf with the reel on in Maplins, there they are, cut and spliced, at cheaper than its worth arguing about ready made ones?.. Or Walmart/Asda supermarket types when you can pick up one almost every day and no petrol costs getting it as you just add it to your grocery list. The greatest run was from upstairs to downstairs to the downstairs MODEM, and then sideways from upstairs to the Kids bedroom MODEM, both were done on 10 meter cables, at about £15 each, and as for worth, they are both reporting back 100 meg speeds in use. I think the were Cat5 at time of purchace. As for the house going Wireless, aint happening. Our wireless reports back 8 meg at its slowest, 30 meg at its fastest, we're supposed to be getting 200 meg wired, but we dont, 150 is about the top speed we get and the wireless is just bloody awful because of too many people using it in the area... Yeah, work that out, our own local lan channel which works out automatically what is quietest, suffers from other people on other networks dragging the speed down?.. well, yeah, I do cheat on that. got a box in the truck. need more, it's a phone call away.
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Post by Lokifan on Jan 20, 2017 8:01:03 GMT
Out of curiosity, what speeds does everyone else get?
53M down and 12M up on 2.4GHz Wifi, right now.
I pay for 25M down, and it does vary over the course of the day.
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Post by GTCGreg on Jan 20, 2017 14:53:28 GMT
Out of curiosity, what speeds does everyone else get? 53M down and 12M up on 2.4GHz Wifi, right now. I pay for 25M down, and it does vary over the course of the day. On hardwire LAN, I usually get between 80 and 90M download and 12M upload. Download will vary but the upload seems to be brickwall limited as it is always 12M. My WiFi access point runs around 35M download at its best and again, 12M upload as that's the best the network is going to do. The WiFi router provided by my ISP seems to run about the same.
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Post by the light works on Jan 20, 2017 15:38:43 GMT
as I recall, I am at 2M in my satellite modem.
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Post by silverdragon on Jan 21, 2017 8:51:17 GMT
Using speedtest.net
currently Download 160.36mbps and 11.47 up, mobile would be 23.6 and 6.5 as of last test last night.
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