Car Electronics - Help Needed

I've tried looking for one too, but it seems there are limits to what these retailers will sell to "civilians". I tried looking for an ECU as well, because I know those go under that name with Danish mechanics as well. No one has come up with some silly translation for that. No luck. It's just one of those parts that "you have to be a mechanic" to get your hands on, apparently.

I'm taking the car to the Skoda mechanic in about 13 hours, so I'll just have to wait and see what they come up with.

But thank you for taking the time to try and help. Even though you didn't come up with anything, the effort is truly appreciated

What you are looking for sounds like a CCM (convenience control module). Here is a forum thread with a repair for corroded lines.

www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/224596-diy-ccm-and-corroded-terminal-repair/


As to where the thing is at, the only thing I could find was the position on a 2005 Skoda Superb. It is under the carpet in the rear passenger foot well according to the 2nd post here.

www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/194391-central-locking-module-2005-superb-19-tdi/

Dont ask.
I spent half an hour chasing my Fuse box in my Toyota...
There is one under the hood, but there is one inside as well.
Its behind a panel only visible when you open the door and get down on your knees outside the car?...
Plus, its not marked at all from the outside.
Inside there is a handy sticker to tell you which fuse is which....

Now again to the old joke we used to say with a new can/truck at work, first game is hunt the dipstick....
The winner is the first person to point at the transport manager...
Then on to the actual dipstick.
As luck would have it, the trend started to cover all user serviceable parts with BRIGHT YELLOW dayglow plastic, so its much easier now...
But old transits in particular, use to hide the dipstick behind the engine block.
Renault vans?... not only was it a different shape, it was usually under something you had to move out of the way first, like the fuel lines, or air cleaner.

I like my Trucks.... the last one I had, pop the engine cover, and there they were all in a line just behind that cover, nice and easy to get at and all in the same place.
CLEARLY labeled, so you wont put oil in the radiator, yellow oil, blue water, orange for other liquids like hydraulic oils for power steering.
And all had labels clearly visible that told you what they were.
The fuel oil goes in the gas tank at the side of the cab....
Yes we is more intelligent drivers, but da grease monkey trainee in the service sheds?...
I had one who was totally flummoxed by the idea of "draining the air".
(You have air tanks that collect moisture, you needs to push the valve that drains the water and some air out of the bottom now and again...)


Current problem, it has taken me six months to work out how to get to my switch that controls the air from my car heater matrix...
That fan is 5-stage, its "confused" and doesnt work right, I had to prise part of the dash off with a screw driver, as there is no way to unscrew the matrix control panel.
Turns out its a clip-on panel.
NO ONE I have asked knows how they come apart?...
Two squirts of wd40, and all is working again.

my old tender had two oil dipsticks, one you accessed by opening a flap on the nose, and the other you reached over the wheel when the cab was tipped.

the silly thing was the pump to tip the cab had two settings: "raise" to tip the cab closed, and "lower" to tip the cab open.

The fuse box on my 1990 Buick Skylark is located underneath the steering column.

You have to either be short or a contortionist to get under there in any sort of fashion to actually see which set of fuses you're working with.

UPDATE:

Got a call from the mechanic about an hour ago. The body control module is fine and so is the ECU. They're not done yet, so I won't get the car back until tomorrow, but they've still only spent 2½ hours on it, so they're keeping to the time table we've agreed on.

So far they've checked the service indicator and that's just a question of whoever reset it not having done it right. They've already fixed that for me and aren't charging me for it, since the computer was already hooked up and it was just a matter of ticking the right boxes on the screen.

They've also taken a look at the horn and it turns out the horn itself is defective for some reason. They've gone over the wiring and the contact in the steering wheel and nothing is wrong there, so we're talking $10 worth of parts. Have to check with my Haynes Guide and see if that's possibly something I can do myself. If it isn't, it can't be more than half an hour's worth of work, tops.

They've had a look at my rear window wiper too and are basically calling the last mechanic I went to an incompetent idiot. The motor's shot and how he missed that, they just can't get their heads around. The wiring and connectors are fine, so that's definitely something I can fix myself for around $120.

The last thing they need to look into is the driver's side window and they'll do that tomorrow morning. The guy who's working on my car openly admitted over the phone that he was 95% sure he knew what was wrong before even having seen the car. Every model from 2001 to 2006 apparently had a design flaw where the door hinge pinches the wire going up to the motor in the door. The flaw was so well known by early 2006 that had I owned the car from new (it's a 2005 and I bought it used in 2013), I would have received a letter telling me I could come in and get it fixed for free under warranty. If it turns out that's what's wrong, the guy was kind of surprised the previous owner didn't get it fixed for free. They don't offer that any more, since people have already had the chance to get it done, so I'll have to pay for it, but on the plus side, this is something they've seen so often that they know exactly how to fix it and make sure it never happens again, so again, we're talking an hour's worth of work at the most.

All in all, I think I made a good call taking it to the Skoda garage. Even though their hourly rates are much higher than what I'm used to, they know the car much better than an independant mechanic does, so they can find the flaws and fix them much quicker, which is probably gonna end up saving me a small bundle in the end.

Sounds that way, yeah.

Come to think of it, some of those problems might have been there longer than I remembered. I think I've just gotten a little used to them being there, but once the horn went and I started worrying about whether the airbag would work in an emergency, I think I might have squished all the events closer together in my memory, creating a false correlation between the different faults. What I remember as only being a couple of months might actually be a year or more...

As far as the Haynes manual goes, there's only so much I can do with that. I live in a town house with no garage or carport, so weather, ligthing and room to work are all factors that sometimes prevent me from doing stuff myself that I might otherwise have been perfectly capable of.

that's amateur stuff. we changed the starter in my parents' old Jeep Wagoneer in the parking lot of the tennis court of a five star resort. (they were donating their pro and court time for the high school tennis team. yes, I played.)

yep.