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Post by silverdragon on Mar 17, 2017 7:28:50 GMT
So you say powerdrive a screw partially in and then finish it by hand is superior to just driving it home all at once. I say, hogwash. It sounds to me like a myth. And you know what we do with myths around these parts. We bust ( or confirm) them. No I say power drive it most of the way, stop, and slowly tighten it by power, making sure you dont OVER-Tighten it. And making sure you dot over-tighten it is a myth I am happy to test all on my own?.. and its confirmed as causing unnecessary damage and splitting wood here in my own workshop.?.. Feel free to replicate if you so wish, all that I put forward is open to further testing or discussion as always. I now set my clutch to low, and tighten that as I go, so the screw doesnt get too tight, as I have split many a piece in my time and had to start again... mea culpa on the overtighten thing?.. |
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Post by silverdragon on Mar 17, 2017 7:39:53 GMT
So you say powerdrive a screw partially in and then finish it by hand is superior to just driving it home all at once. I say, hogwash. It sounds to me like a myth. And you know what we do with myths around these parts. We bust ( or confirm) them. sounds like a good topic. here is our common "one and done" screw.  the image doesn't show they typically have a cut in the tip to make them slice through fibers on the way in, something like a tap. so: compare to pilot drilling a traditional wood screw, with options of power drive max speed one shot. power drive low speed in three steps pilot and drive impact drive one shot hammer in and turn to tight and the one that left me wondering what the guy was thinking: power drive to close and then hit with a hammer. The hit it with a hammer one should be discounted as complete idiocy, I have never seen a screw "work better" with a hammer on it. Hammer in and turn to tighten are specialised screws, impact screws, built for soft-soft wood or specialised installations, such as this type  or this type that have a screw head also for extra tight in very wet wood... some cll 'em roofing nails, barge board nails Some also call them twist nail.   Cant find any that show either a hexagonal head for spanner or screw head right now... |
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Post by GTCGreg on Mar 17, 2017 13:46:53 GMT
So you say powerdrive a screw partially in and then finish it by hand is superior to just driving it home all at once. I say, hogwash. It sounds to me like a myth. And you know what we do with myths around these parts. We bust ( or confirm) them. No I say power drive it most of the way, stop, and slowly tighten it by power, making sure you dont OVER-Tighten it. And making sure you dot over-tighten it is a myth I am happy to test all on my own?.. and its confirmed as causing unnecessary damage and splitting wood here in my own workshop.?.. Feel free to replicate if you so wish, all that I put forward is open to further testing or discussion as always. I now set my clutch to low, and tighten that as I go, so the screw doesnt get too tight, as I have split many a piece in my time and had to start again... mea culpa on the overtighten thing?.. I said nothing about OVER-Tightining. |
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Post by the light works on Mar 17, 2017 14:01:39 GMT
there are also some timber lags that are built to drive with a heavy hammer, and then quarter turn to tighten them. the threads are specifically shaped for the purpose.
another feature of the impact gun is that as the screw gets deeper, the actual drive rate slows down
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