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Post by the light works on Sept 22, 2017 13:41:58 GMT
so find an outside outlet. or make one. The best plan I came up with was use of an inverter and let my cars engine take the strain. The inverter was lighter to carry than the extension lead anyway... And they dont like you kicking holes in walls to make an outlet at work?. The nearest one was the one supplied to allow a block heater on the trucks engines. And they never used that anyway. It was inside the loading bay... and the truck always parked rear towards that wall. somebody my uncle knew found a 24VDC microwave. or if you really want to do things the hard way, my dad inherited a motor aternator from his dad. you just hook ten batteries in series, and it makes 120VAC.
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Post by GTCGreg on Sept 22, 2017 14:03:25 GMT
they called them dynamotors. They were very common before transistorized inverters were invented. Most ran off either 12 or 24 V DC input. The output voltage could be anything they wanted.
In fact, that's where we got the name "inverter". Normally, they would use 120 V AC motor to drive a low voltage DC generator. If you "inverted" the wiring, you could get 120 V AC from a lower voltage DC source. Hence the name "inverter"
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Post by wvengineer on Sept 22, 2017 14:10:45 GMT
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Post by the light works on Sept 22, 2017 14:30:50 GMT
they called them dynamotors. They were very common before transistorized inverters were invented. Most ran off either 12 or 24 V DC input. The output voltage could be anything they wanted. In fact, that's where we got the name "inverter". Normally, they would use 120 V AC motor to drive a low voltage DC generator. If you "inverted" the wiring, you could get 120 V AC from a lower voltage DC source. Hence the name "inverter" this one, if I read the labeling right, just takes DC input and uses a rotary switch to produce AC output.
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Post by GTCGreg on Sept 22, 2017 14:44:08 GMT
they called them dynamotors. They were very common before transistorized inverters were invented. Most ran off either 12 or 24 V DC input. The output voltage could be anything they wanted. In fact, that's where we got the name "inverter". Normally, they would use 120 V AC motor to drive a low voltage DC generator. If you "inverted" the wiring, you could get 120 V AC from a lower voltage DC source. Hence the name "inverter" this one, if I read the labeling right, just takes DC input and uses a rotary switch to produce AC output. That's probably how they are doing it. Some used 60 Hz vibrator switches.
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Post by silverdragon on Sept 25, 2017 6:21:21 GMT
The best plan I came up with was use of an inverter and let my cars engine take the strain. The inverter was lighter to carry than the extension lead anyway... And they dont like you kicking holes in walls to make an outlet at work?. The nearest one was the one supplied to allow a block heater on the trucks engines. And they never used that anyway. It was inside the loading bay... and the truck always parked rear towards that wall. somebody my uncle knew found a 24VDC microwave. or if you really want to do things the hard way, my dad inherited a motor aternator from his dad. you just hook ten batteries in series, and it makes 120VAC. Thats the extreme hard way, we are on 240v A/C around these parts?. Well, at least 230 anyway. The "inverter" I refer to is the camping caravanning type modern all electronics thing you can get at any good hardware store these days, its just the old name stuck?.. we still call 'em by the old imperial term, we didnt get rahnd to dat new-fagled metricised name yet in dese parts?.
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Post by the light works on Sept 25, 2017 14:18:04 GMT
somebody my uncle knew found a 24VDC microwave. or if you really want to do things the hard way, my dad inherited a motor aternator from his dad. you just hook ten batteries in series, and it makes 120VAC. Thats the extreme hard way, we are on 240v A/C around these parts?. Well, at least 230 anyway. The "inverter" I refer to is the camping caravanning type modern all electronics thing you can get at any good hardware store these days, its just the old name stuck?.. we still call 'em by the old imperial term, we didnt get rahnd to dat new-fagled metricised name yet in dese parts?. so, twenty batteries in series... the other benefit is you can set them up to switch to parallel and jump start ANYTHING.
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Post by GTCGreg on Sept 25, 2017 15:06:37 GMT
Thats the extreme hard way, we are on 240v A/C around these parts?. Well, at least 230 anyway. The "inverter" I refer to is the camping caravanning type modern all electronics thing you can get at any good hardware store these days, its just the old name stuck?.. we still call 'em by the old imperial term, we didnt get rahnd to dat new-fagled metricised name yet in dese parts?. so, twenty batteries in series... the other benefit is you can set them up to switch to parallel and jump start ANYTHING. Switching all those batteries from series to parallel to charge them could be a challenge. If you wanted an automatic switching system, it would probably cost you more in relays than just buying a high power inverter. Another disadvantage with the series/parallel configuration is that you can't get your AC power while charging the batteries. With an inverter, you can. An interesting thing about the new inverters is that the actually do convert the 12 volts DC to about 140 volts DC and then use MOSFET transistors to switch that DC on and off at a 60Hz rate to convert it to AC.
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Post by the light works on Sept 25, 2017 15:11:03 GMT
so, twenty batteries in series... the other benefit is you can set them up to switch to parallel and jump start ANYTHING. Switching all those batteries from series to parallel to charge them could be a challenge. If you wanted an automatic switching system, it would probably cost you more in relays than just buying a high power inverter. Another disadvantage with the series/parallel configuration is that you can't get your AC power while charging the batteries. With an inverter, you can. An interesting thing about the new inverters is that the actually do convert the 12 volts DC to about 140 volts DC and then use MOSFET transistors to swithc that DC on and off at a 60Hz rate to convert it to AC. the part where I had specified that this was doing things the hard way dropped off...
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Post by silverdragon on Sept 27, 2017 6:56:35 GMT
Thats the extreme hard way, we are on 240v A/C around these parts?. Well, at least 230 anyway. The "inverter" I refer to is the camping caravanning type modern all electronics thing you can get at any good hardware store these days, its just the old name stuck?.. we still call 'em by the old imperial term, we didnt get rahnd to dat new-fagled metricised name yet in dese parts?. so, twenty batteries in series... the other benefit is you can set them up to switch to parallel and jump start ANYTHING. Open question, what does it take to jump-start a Boing 747, or A380?. I know what it takes to start a Vulcan, I know you dont want to be too close, because it makes your hair stand on end...
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Post by GTCGreg on Sept 27, 2017 13:30:10 GMT
so, twenty batteries in series... the other benefit is you can set them up to switch to parallel and jump start ANYTHING. Open question, what does it take to jump-start a Boing 747, or A380?. I know what it takes to start a Vulcan, I know you dont want to be too close, because it makes your hair stand on end... From what I understand, most big jet engines are started from bleed air from the APU (Auxiliary Power Unit). The APU is a smaller, jet turbine driven unit that supplies power to the aircraft while it is parked on the ground and not connected to a separate mobile power unit. The start up procedure is to first start the APU using an electric starter motor that is supplied voltage from the on-board aircraft battery. Then air from the APU's compressor turbine is bled off and used to spin up one of the main engines using a small air driven starter. After that, the other engines are started either using air from the APU or bleed air from the already started main engine(s). If the aircraft is connected to a mobile ground based power unit, compressed air from that unit can also be used to start the main engines in place of using the APU.
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Post by the light works on Sept 28, 2017 14:20:08 GMT
so, twenty batteries in series... the other benefit is you can set them up to switch to parallel and jump start ANYTHING. Open question, what does it take to jump-start a Boing 747, or A380?. I know what it takes to start a Vulcan, I know you dont want to be too close, because it makes your hair stand on end... it appears they run on a 24V system, but I wasn't able to find cranking amps.
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