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Post by silverdragon on Feb 13, 2016 8:25:56 GMT
Why is there a joist hanger there? that's not a joist hanger, that is a holddown anchor. supposed to keep the house from blowing off to Oz in our winter storms. Erm... maybe I am looking too hard, but it does appear that he has set the bolt in the concrete with polystyrene expanding foam.....
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Post by the light works on Feb 13, 2016 8:46:09 GMT
that's not a joist hanger, that is a holddown anchor. supposed to keep the house from blowing off to Oz in our winter storms. Erm... maybe I am looking too hard, but it does appear that he has set the bolt in the concrete with polystyrene expanding foam..... I'm guessing it is a two part epoxy adhesive.
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Post by silverdragon on Feb 13, 2016 9:04:40 GMT
Erm... maybe I am looking too hard, but it does appear that he has set the bolt in the concrete with polystyrene expanding foam..... I'm guessing it is a two part epoxy adhesive. Is that "enough" to be a ground anchor?... Epoxy adhesive on such a small bolt, if that bolt is less than a foot into the concrete, I would challenge the ability to hold on, unless those tie downs are numerous?... as in more than just half a dozen of them on a full house..... I have seen tie-down in storm proofing of many varieties, from bolt guns that chuck bolts straight into the concrete in numbers where a piece of two-by-four with half a dozen bolts per say 10ft can be secure as any other form of tie-down, I have seen re-bar from the concrete foundations left sticking up to be secured into the walls, I have seen bolts set into the surface of the concrete, but glued in?.. thats a new one on me.... and that looks, to be quite honest here, a very small 10mil to 15 mill tiny bolt there?... (Cant quite get the scale right from the pic..)
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Post by the light works on Feb 13, 2016 9:21:26 GMT
I'm guessing it is a two part epoxy adhesive. Is that "enough" to be a ground anchor?... Epoxy adhesive on such a small bolt, if that bolt is less than a foot into the concrete, I would challenge the ability to hold on, unless those tie downs are numerous?... as in more than just half a dozen of them on a full house..... I have seen tie-down in storm proofing of many varieties, from bolt guns that chuck bolts straight into the concrete in numbers where a piece of two-by-four with half a dozen bolts per say 10ft can be secure as any other form of tie-down, I have seen re-bar from the concrete foundations left sticking up to be secured into the walls, I have seen bolts set into the surface of the concrete, but glued in?.. thats a new one on me.... and that looks, to be quite honest here, a very small 10mil to 15 mill tiny bolt there?... (Cant quite get the scale right from the pic..) to give you a scale, that is a 6X6 post it is screwed to. probably a 1" diameter anchor bolt, probably with a wedge base, uder the epoxy, and most likely in a hole bored to the length of an 18 inch bit. - and that would ba an extra anchor that was demanded to be added after the fact. planned anchors use "J" or "L" bolts that are cast into the concrete. edit: given it is over a wood floor, there is a good chance what you are seeing really IS sprayfoam insulation in the hole it passes through, and if it is a second floor tiedown, it has a matching bracket on the top of the post underneath. one building I worked on had 3/4 inch threaded rod going from the foundation to the ceiling in a three story building - with plates holding down every floor.
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Post by kharnynb on Feb 13, 2016 9:50:19 GMT
hmm...we just use full length wooden beams on the outside, sunk into the concrete foundation.
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Post by the light works on Feb 13, 2016 9:53:11 GMT
hmm...we just use full length wooden beams on the outside, sunk into the concrete foundation. people will do that with barns and such, here. when your building is 40 feet tall, it gets a bit awkward.
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Post by kharnynb on Feb 13, 2016 9:56:24 GMT
meh, our house hasn't fallen down yet in the 65 years since it was built
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Post by the light works on Feb 13, 2016 10:06:44 GMT
meh, our house hasn't fallen down yet in the 65 years since it was built this is the one that has the rods going full height. I found out about them because they have already done one complete overhaul since they were built 25 years ago. edit: in fact, I have one of their old skylights. eventually, I will get it on a building - either a gazebo or a woodshed.
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Post by silverdragon on Feb 13, 2016 10:19:53 GMT
Is that "enough" to be a ground anchor?... Epoxy adhesive on such a small bolt, if that bolt is less than a foot into the concrete, I would challenge the ability to hold on, unless those tie downs are numerous?... as in more than just half a dozen of them on a full house..... I have seen tie-down in storm proofing of many varieties, from bolt guns that chuck bolts straight into the concrete in numbers where a piece of two-by-four with half a dozen bolts per say 10ft can be secure as any other form of tie-down, I have seen re-bar from the concrete foundations left sticking up to be secured into the walls, I have seen bolts set into the surface of the concrete, but glued in?.. thats a new one on me.... and that looks, to be quite honest here, a very small 10mil to 15 mill tiny bolt there?... (Cant quite get the scale right from the pic..) to give you a scale, that is a 6X6 post it is screwed to. probably a 1" diameter anchor bolt, probably with a wedge base, uder the epoxy, and most likely in a hole bored to the length of an 18 inch bit. - and that would ba an extra anchor that was demanded to be added after the fact. planned anchors use "J" or "L" bolts that are cast into the concrete. edit: given it is over a wood floor, there is a good chance what you are seeing really IS sprayfoam insulation in the hole it passes through, and if it is a second floor tiedown, it has a matching bracket on the top of the post underneath. one building I worked on had 3/4 inch threaded rod going from the foundation to the ceiling in a three story building - with plates holding down every floor. Well, if that is how you say, and there is an anchor plate in the concrete, and that "Foam" is just filling the gap without being the glue, slap me with a wet fish and I can shut up now, because thats probably about right.
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Post by silverdragon on Feb 13, 2016 10:21:19 GMT
hmm...we just use full length wooden beams on the outside, sunk into the concrete foundation. Wood sunk into concrete, may I presume it is all pressure treated with anti-rot agents and the like?... Plus, what happens when you need to "replace" one of them should the needs must?... Thats one hell of an excavation...
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Post by the light works on Feb 13, 2016 10:24:22 GMT
to give you a scale, that is a 6X6 post it is screwed to. probably a 1" diameter anchor bolt, probably with a wedge base, uder the epoxy, and most likely in a hole bored to the length of an 18 inch bit. - and that would ba an extra anchor that was demanded to be added after the fact. planned anchors use "J" or "L" bolts that are cast into the concrete. edit: given it is over a wood floor, there is a good chance what you are seeing really IS sprayfoam insulation in the hole it passes through, and if it is a second floor tiedown, it has a matching bracket on the top of the post underneath. one building I worked on had 3/4 inch threaded rod going from the foundation to the ceiling in a three story building - with plates holding down every floor. Well, if that is how you say, and there is an anchor plate in the concrete, and that "Foam" is just filling the gap without being the glue, slap me with a wet fish and I can shut up now, because thats probably about right. I have seen anchor bolts epoxied into drilled holes, though.
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Post by kharnynb on Feb 13, 2016 11:17:12 GMT
hmm...we just use full length wooden beams on the outside, sunk into the concrete foundation. Wood sunk into concrete, may I presume it is all pressure treated with anti-rot agents and the like?... Plus, what happens when you need to "replace" one of them should the needs must?... Thats one hell of an excavation... moist barrier and treated, but they just pull em out if you replace one, after placing a temporary support next to it.
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Post by the light works on Feb 13, 2016 11:44:43 GMT
Wood sunk into concrete, may I presume it is all pressure treated with anti-rot agents and the like?... Plus, what happens when you need to "replace" one of them should the needs must?... Thats one hell of an excavation... moist barrier and treated, but they just pull em out if you replace one, after placing a temporary support next to it. you guys must use more slippery concrete than we do.
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Post by kharnynb on Feb 13, 2016 12:36:26 GMT
the moist barrier hardens and crumbles if you a certain chemical(not sure what it is)
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Post by the light works on Feb 13, 2016 12:52:49 GMT
the moist barrier hardens and crumbles if you a certain chemical(not sure what it is) here, if wood is sunk in concrete it is pretty much a permanent part of the concrete.
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Post by GTCGreg on Feb 13, 2016 14:07:37 GMT
Question for TLW. I am in the process of building a garage at our cabin to store the boat and have a shop in it. I would like to put a subpanel in the garage and feed it from a 50 amp 220 V breaker from the main panel in the cabin. The distance from the cabin to the garage is about 50 feet. Can I get away with using 8–3 (plus ground) UF underground cable or do I need to go with 6–3? you have three factors, there. technically, #8 cable is only rated for 40 amps. UF cable is a PITA to work with, and your voltage drop calc starts to get bordeline at full load - really only an issue with motors, but still a potential issue. my inclination would be to run your phases in #6 , nuke in #8 and ground in #1 in PVC. 3/4" will fit, but 1" would give room for expansion if you needed to size it up later. then, assuming it is not a split bus panel in the cabin and 50A is the max you can put in, I'd go ahead and put in a 60A breaker, just because you can. Thanks for the recommendation. Since I have to dig a trench anyway, it's just as easy to lay in PVC conduit as UF cable. And with what they charge for underground UF, it probably wouldn't be much more expensive to do it that way.
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Post by the light works on Feb 13, 2016 14:29:59 GMT
you have three factors, there. technically, #8 cable is only rated for 40 amps. UF cable is a PITA to work with, and your voltage drop calc starts to get bordeline at full load - really only an issue with motors, but still a potential issue. my inclination would be to run your phases in #6 , nuke in #8 and ground in #1 in PVC. 3/4" will fit, but 1" would give room for expansion if you needed to size it up later. then, assuming it is not a split bus panel in the cabin and 50A is the max you can put in, I'd go ahead and put in a 60A breaker, just because you can. Thanks for the recommendation. Since I have to dig a trench anyway, it's just as easy to lay in PVC conduit as UF cable. And with what they charge for underground UF, it probably wouldn't be much more expensive to do it that way. I think it comes out pretty close in price.
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Post by the light works on Feb 13, 2016 14:32:13 GMT
and the commercial building I am trying to get shoehorned in to get the underground conduit in place might be changing again...the last change got easier. this one stands to get ugly.
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Post by ponytail61 on Feb 13, 2016 15:04:05 GMT
Why is there a joist hanger there? that's not a joist hanger, that is a holddown anchor. supposed to keep the house from blowing off to Oz in our winter storms. I see the bolt in the bottom now. Also no ears on the outside like a joist hanger. In Md. we rarely had to use anything except hurricane ties in the roofing system. So I guess my next question is the inspectors don't have a problem with you cutting into them?
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Post by the light works on Feb 13, 2016 15:12:30 GMT
that's not a joist hanger, that is a holddown anchor. supposed to keep the house from blowing off to Oz in our winter storms. I see the bolt in the bottom now. Also no ears on the outside like a joist hanger. In Md. we rarely had to use anything except hurricane ties in the roofing system. So I guess my next question is the inspectors don't have a problem with you cutting into them? Shhh! yeah, technically, I should have gotten engineering permission before I cut it, but it was a relatively small part of the flange, well above the bottom. if it pulls apart where I made the cut, they have bigger problems.
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